By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District&nbsp;Horticulturist

As seed catalogs start to fill my mailbox, I’m reminded of the stash of leftover garden seeds I’ve saved from past seasons. Like many gardeners, I wonder:&nbsp;Should I plant these older seeds or invest in fresh ones for the upcoming growing season?&nbsp;The answer depends on two key factors: how the seeds have been stored and whether they are still viable.

Seed longevity depends heavily on storage conditions. It is best to place packets of seed in an airtight container for better protection. Always keep seed containers labeled with the date of storage for future reference.

The three biggest enemies of seed viability are moisture (humidity), heat, and light.&nbsp; To maximize seed longevity, seeds should be stored in a cool, dry location-ideally below 50 degrees and with less than 60% humidity.&nbsp; A refrigerator is an excellent option as long as seeds are kept in a tightly sealed and airtight container to protect against moisture.&nbsp; Purchased seed can also be stored in an airtight container in the freezer to extend its viability even longer.

If cold storage isn’t an option, the next best thing is to find a place in the home with a consistent temperature such as a shelf in the basement, an interior closet, or under a bed (away from air vents).

If your seed is more than a year or two old or storage conditions haven’t been ideal and you also have plenty of leftover seed, testing seed viability before planting is a wise step.&nbsp; Here’s how to test seed viability:

Take 10 seeds from your leftover packet. Place them on a damp paper towel and cover them with another moist towel. Roll up the towels and put them in a plastic bag with a few small air holes. Place the bag in a warm spot, such as the top of your refrigerator.

Check after a week and count and remove any sprouted seeds. Continue monitoring for another week to calculate your germination rate.

A germination rate of 70% or higher (7 out of 10 seeds have sprouted) means that seeds are still usable, but you may want to sow more densely.&nbsp; If the germination rate is 50% or less, it is probably best to purchase new seeds.

Seed longevity varies by plant type, even when stored correctly:

4–5 years: Crucifers (like broccoli, cabbage, and kale), lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, and melons. 2–3 years: Carrots, beets, chard, corn, okra, pepper, peas, and spinach.

1–2 years: Parsnips, onions, and parsley are among the shortest-lived seeds.

In summary, if your garden seeds have been stored in less-than-ideal conditions or fail the germination test, it’s a good idea to purchase some fresh seeds for 2025.

A practical strategy for many gardeners can be to combine leftover seeds that have been stored properly or pass the viability test with a few new selections from your favorite seed catalogs. This approach can help save money and still allow room to experiment with new garden varieties.

To learn more about resources made available by K-State Research and Extension Central District and to find out more tips from Jason Graves, check out their website&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/">here.&nbsp;</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692823329994.jpeg" alt="Jason Graves" />
 <figcaption>Jason Graves</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District&nbsp;HorticulturistAs seed catalogs start to fill my mailbox, I’m reminded of the stash of leftover garden seeds I’ve saved from past seasons. Like many gardeners, I wonder:&nbsp;Should I plant these older seeds or invest in fresh ones for the upcoming growing season?&nbsp;The answer depends on two key factors: how the seeds have been stored and whether they are still viable.<h2>Seed storage</h2>Seed longevity depends heavily on storage conditions. It is best to place packets of seed in an airtight container for better protection. Always keep seed containers labeled with the date of storage for future reference.The three biggest enemies of seed viability are moisture (humidity), heat, and light.&nbsp; To maximize seed longevity, seeds should be stored in a cool, dry location-ideally below 50 degrees and with less than 60% humidity.&nbsp; A refrigerator is an excellent option as long as seeds are kept in a tightly sealed and airtight container to protect against moisture.&nbsp; Purchased seed can also be stored in an airtight container in the freezer to extend its viability even longer.If cold storage isn’t an option, the next best thing is to find a place in the home with a consistent temperature such as a shelf in the basement, an interior closet, or under a bed (away from air vents).<h2>Testing seed viability</h2>If your seed is more than a year or two old or storage conditions haven’t been ideal and you also have plenty of leftover seed, testing seed viability before planting is a wise step.&nbsp; Here’s how to test seed viability:Take 10 seeds from your leftover packet. Place them on a damp paper towel and cover them with another moist towel. Roll up the towels and put them in a plastic bag with a few small air holes. Place the bag in a warm spot, such as the top of your refrigerator. Check after a week and count and remove any sprouted seeds. Continue monitoring for another week to calculate your germination rate.A germination rate of 70% or higher (7 out of 10 seeds have sprouted) means that seeds are still usable, but you may want to sow more densely.&nbsp; If the germination rate is 50% or less, it is probably best to purchase new seeds.<h2>Length of seed life</h2>Seed longevity varies by plant type, even when stored correctly:4–5 years: Crucifers (like broccoli, cabbage, and kale), lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, and melons. 2–3 years: Carrots, beets, chard, corn, okra, pepper, peas, and spinach. 1–2 years: Parsnips, onions, and parsley are among the shortest-lived seeds.<h2>When to buy new seeds</h2>In summary, if your garden seeds have been stored in less-than-ideal conditions or fail the germination test, it’s a good idea to purchase some fresh seeds for 2025.A practical strategy for many gardeners can be to combine leftover seeds that have been stored properly or pass the viability test with a few new selections from your favorite seed catalogs. This approach can help save money and still allow room to experiment with new garden varieties.To learn more about resources made available by K-State Research and Extension Central District and to find out more tips from Jason Graves, check out their website&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/">here.&nbsp;</a>

GRAVES: Old garden seeds — plant or replace?

By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District&nbsp;Horticulturist

Winter injury has been a common problem on young and even mature trees here in central Kansas over the last several seasons.&nbsp; Winter tree injuries are frustrating because the damage may not be seen or noticed until much later the following year.

Winter injury can come in the form of sunscald/freeze injury or winter desiccation (drying) damage.&nbsp; New and young trees and evergreens are the most susceptible to winter injuries.&nbsp; Proactive measures can help reduce this type of damage in 2024-25.

Sunscald is a term for the cracking and splitting of tree bark caused by rapid heating or cooling. It can occur both in the extreme heat of summer and during the winter.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 

A typical winter day in Kansas may be sunny and 40-50 degrees. High-intensity sunlight occurs at lower angles during the winter, heating the south and southwest sides of tree trunks. The heat can cause cells to come out of dormancy and become active.&nbsp; 

Once the sun sets or the weather quickly turns below freezing the active cells and conductive tissue are killed.

Symptoms of sunscald initially appear as sunken and discolored bark, which later cracks, splits, and falls off the tree in patches. Thin-barked trees are especially prone to sunscald. Maples, fruit trees, willows, lindens, honey locusts, some oaks and many other trees can easily be damaged, especially when young.

New and young trees can be wrapped to minimize winter sunscald. Commercial wraps, such as corrugated plastic guards or crepe paper, are easy to use. Plastic guards slip around the trunk, while crepe paper-style wraps should be applied upward from the base to just above the lowest branches, overlapping about one-third with each turn.

Wrap trees from November to April (Thanksgiving to Easter) to help shield trunks from sunlight and heat. Paper-type wraps should be removed in spring to avoid pests that may get underneath. Repeat this process each winter until the bark thickens and becomes corky. Wraps also help protect against feeding damage from rabbits and rodents, which can harm young trunks during winter.

Desiccation means drying out.&nbsp; A dry winter is stressful on any tree, especially on evergreens.&nbsp; All plants continue to transpire during the winter, and freezing plant tissue or frozen soil may restrict water conduction.&nbsp; When water loss through transpiration isn’t replaced, winter drying kills portions of the plant.&nbsp; Winter desiccation is worse on the side of the plant facing the wind.

Freeze injury can occur even when soil moisture is adequate and is usually the result of extreme temperature swings during mid-winter. In Kansas, warm January days can cause trees to lose their acclimatization to cold, making them more vulnerable if freezing temperatures return suddenly.

Prevent desiccation by ensuring that trees and woody plants have access to moisture throughout the winter. Recent rain has helped provide some soil moisture, but this needs to be monitored throughout the winter, especially on young trees and evergreens.&nbsp;

 If conditions become dry, a mid-winter watering will be of great benefit.&nbsp; Trees and shrubs can be watered when needed during the winter on days when the temperature is at least 40 degrees, and the soil isn’t frozen.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692823329994.jpeg" alt="Jason Graves" />
 <figcaption>Jason Graves</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District&nbsp;Horticulturist Winter injury has been a common problem on young and even mature trees here in central Kansas over the last several seasons.&nbsp; Winter tree injuries are frustrating because the damage may not be seen or noticed until much later the following year.Winter injury can come in the form of sunscald/freeze injury or winter desiccation (drying) damage.&nbsp; New and young trees and evergreens are the most susceptible to winter injuries.&nbsp; Proactive measures can help reduce this type of damage in 2024-25.<h2>Sunscald</h2>Sunscald is a term for the cracking and splitting of tree bark caused by rapid heating or cooling. It can occur both in the extreme heat of summer and during the winter.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A typical winter day in Kansas may be sunny and 40-50 degrees. High-intensity sunlight occurs at lower angles during the winter, heating the south and southwest sides of tree trunks. The heat can cause cells to come out of dormancy and become active.&nbsp; Once the sun sets or the weather quickly turns below freezing the active cells and conductive tissue are killed.Symptoms of sunscald initially appear as sunken and discolored bark, which later cracks, splits, and falls off the tree in patches. Thin-barked trees are especially prone to sunscald. Maples, fruit trees, willows, lindens, honey locusts, some oaks and many other trees can easily be damaged, especially when young.<h2>What to do</h2>New and young trees can be wrapped to minimize winter sunscald. Commercial wraps, such as corrugated plastic guards or crepe paper, are easy to use. Plastic guards slip around the trunk, while crepe paper-style wraps should be applied upward from the base to just above the lowest branches, overlapping about one-third with each turn.Wrap trees from November to April (Thanksgiving to Easter) to help shield trunks from sunlight and heat. Paper-type wraps should be removed in spring to avoid pests that may get underneath. Repeat this process each winter until the bark thickens and becomes corky. Wraps also help protect against feeding damage from rabbits and rodents, which can harm young trunks during winter.<h2>Winter desiccation</h2>Desiccation means drying out.&nbsp; A dry winter is stressful on any tree, especially on evergreens.&nbsp; All plants continue to transpire during the winter, and freezing plant tissue or frozen soil may restrict water conduction.&nbsp; When water loss through transpiration isn’t replaced, winter drying kills portions of the plant.&nbsp; Winter desiccation is worse on the side of the plant facing the wind.Freeze injury can occur even when soil moisture is adequate and is usually the result of extreme temperature swings during mid-winter. In Kansas, warm January days can cause trees to lose their acclimatization to cold, making them more vulnerable if freezing temperatures return suddenly.<h2>What to do</h2>Prevent desiccation by ensuring that trees and woody plants have access to moisture throughout the winter. Recent rain has helped provide some soil moisture, but this needs to be monitored throughout the winter, especially on young trees and evergreens.&nbsp; If conditions become dry, a mid-winter watering will be of great benefit.&nbsp; Trees and shrubs can be watered when needed during the winter on days when the temperature is at least 40 degrees, and the soil isn’t frozen.

GRAVES: Take action to avoid winter tree injury

In life, when we choose to avoid hard things, we often miss out on growth and transformation.&nbsp; Honoring what is hard, rather than avoiding it, fosters our growth—and nature has a way of teaching us this lesson.&nbsp; The process of decomposition, while not glamorous, is actually quite miraculous.&nbsp; It is transformation through decay.&nbsp; What looks like waste is turned into raw materials for explosive new growth.

This kind of transformation is the beauty of the process gardeners call composting.&nbsp; Composting teaches us a lot about ourselves and allows us to be tangibly and personally involved in guiding this cycle of nature to happen.

Now is a great time to begin.&nbsp; Leaves are falling here in central Kansas, and this free ‘waste’ material is a precious organic matter resource that can be transformed into the very best soil amendment. Instead of bagging leaves for disposal, gather them for composting.

Composting leaves mimics nature’s decomposition process in forests and returns essential nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Adding composted leaves to garden soil next spring will improve its water-holding capacity, structure, microbial life, fertility, and more.

The magic of leaf composting lies in the unseen work of microbes. Bacteria and fungi feast on the "browns" (carbon-rich materials like leaves) and "greens" (nitrogen-rich materials like kitchen scraps or grass clippings) in the compost pile. These microbes break down tough plant structures, like cellulose, into nutrients and simpler compounds that plants can use.

The microbes generate heat as they feed, often raising the pile’s temperature to 90–140°F. This warmth speeds up decomposition and eliminates many weed seeds and pathogens that could hinder future plant growth.

Through their activity, microbes release essential nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium—in forms plants can easily absorb, enriching the soil for future plants. When decomposition is complete, these hardworking microbes leave behind humus, a rich, stable substance that improves soil structure and moisture retention. Often called "black gold" by gardeners, humus is the ideal soil amendment for gardens, landscape beds, and containers.

One decisive takeaway from composting is that leaves cannot transform independently; they require help from microbes.&nbsp; This is a good lesson for our growth and transformation in life- we can’t do it without help, either. &nbsp;A good question is, who are the 1-3 people I can trust to help me grow?&nbsp; It’s time to find them.

If you’re interested in starting leaf composting this fall, I highly recommend a simple guide on our website called&nbsp;Composting Made Easy.&nbsp;

This easy-to-read guide will help you get started.&nbsp; Visit&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and click the lawn and garden tab to find it.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/10/1730397766685.jpeg" alt=" " />
 <figcaption> </figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District&nbsp;HorticulturistIn life, when we choose to avoid hard things, we often miss out on growth and transformation.&nbsp; Honoring what is hard, rather than avoiding it, fosters our growth—and nature has a way of teaching us this lesson.&nbsp; The process of decomposition, while not glamorous, is actually quite miraculous.&nbsp; It is transformation through decay.&nbsp; What looks like waste is turned into raw materials for explosive new growth.This kind of transformation is the beauty of the process gardeners call composting.&nbsp; Composting teaches us a lot about ourselves and allows us to be tangibly and personally involved in guiding this cycle of nature to happen.Now is a great time to begin.&nbsp; Leaves are falling here in central Kansas, and this free ‘waste’ material is a precious organic matter resource that can be transformed into the very best soil amendment. Instead of bagging leaves for disposal, gather them for composting.Composting leaves mimics nature’s decomposition process in forests and returns essential nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Adding composted leaves to garden soil next spring will improve its water-holding capacity, structure, microbial life, fertility, and more.How microbes helpThe magic of leaf composting lies in the unseen work of microbes. Bacteria and fungi feast on the "browns" (carbon-rich materials like leaves) and "greens" (nitrogen-rich materials like kitchen scraps or grass clippings) in the compost pile. These microbes break down tough plant structures, like cellulose, into nutrients and simpler compounds that plants can use.The microbes generate heat as they feed, often raising the pile’s temperature to 90–140°F. This warmth speeds up decomposition and eliminates many weed seeds and pathogens that could hinder future plant growth.Through their activity, microbes release essential nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium—in forms plants can easily absorb, enriching the soil for future plants. When decomposition is complete, these hardworking microbes leave behind humus, a rich, stable substance that improves soil structure and moisture retention. Often called "black gold" by gardeners, humus is the ideal soil amendment for gardens, landscape beds, and containers.What we learnOne decisive takeaway from composting is that leaves cannot transform independently; they require help from microbes.&nbsp; This is a good lesson for our growth and transformation in life- we can’t do it without help, either. &nbsp;A good question is, who are the 1-3 people I can trust to help me grow?&nbsp; It’s time to find them.If you’re interested in starting leaf composting this fall, I highly recommend a simple guide on our website called&nbsp;Composting Made Easy.&nbsp; This easy-to-read guide will help you get started.&nbsp; Visit&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and click the lawn and garden tab to find it.

GRAVES: The Beauty of Decomposition

By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District Horticulturist

It might feel early to be thinking about next spring, but believe it or not, now is a good time to boost the spring wow factor of your landscape by planting hardy bulbs.&nbsp; Not only do these bulbs add color to our landscapes, but many of them provide pollinators with resources like nectar or pollen at a time when few other plants are blooming.

Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs like tulip, allium, crocus, and daffodils in October through early November to give them enough time to root before winter.&nbsp; As long as the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs will continue root development during the fall. One easy way you can find out how warm the soil temperature is across various parts of the state is to visit our weather data library at&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="http://mesonet.k-state.edu/">http://mesonet.k-state.edu/</a>

Garden centers often carry a selection of hardy bulbs in the fall and bulbs are also easy to mail order.&nbsp;&nbsp; When shopping, be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout.&nbsp; Big bulbs are always better and the difference in price almost always pays off with much better performance.

If you are selecting bulbs for pollinators, it is best to choose unhybridized species to ensure that the flower retains its pollen and nectar.&nbsp; For example, retailers may offer a crocus species mix which would be preferred over the hybrids.&nbsp; Crocus, muscari, species-variety tulips and wild-type daffodils such as Narcissus poeticus or Narcissus jonquilla are examples of bulbs that are well-loved by bees.

Plant bulbs in a site that receives plenty of sunshine as 5-6 hours of sunlight are needed for the best flowering.&nbsp; Bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, but they do not tolerate poorly drained soil.&nbsp; This means it is usually necessary to prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix into the soil.&nbsp; Spread several inches of organic matter over the soil surface and till or spade it in.

Adequate fertility is also essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past usually have high levels of phosphorus and potassium.&nbsp; In such cases, it is best to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 1/2 pound (1 cup) per 100 square feet before planting.

The size and species of the bulb determines how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the planting hole should be about 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower.&nbsp; Planting too shallow may result in damage to the bulb caused by soil (frost) heaving during the winter.&nbsp; Water the bulbs after planting and monitor the soil for moisture if the fall/winter is dry but do not overwater as bulb rotting may result.

Fall is also a good time to divide or move existing spring flowering bulbs. The clump should be dug, sorted by size and replanted at the same depth and in properly prepared soil.&nbsp; Sorting by size allows the smaller bulbs to compete better and have more space to develop. Flower size will also be about the same for a more uniform look. In many cases very small bulbs are best discarded as they may never reach flowering size.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692823329994.jpeg" alt="Jason Graves" />
 <figcaption>Jason Graves</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District Horticulturist It might feel early to be thinking about next spring, but believe it or not, now is a good time to boost the spring wow factor of your landscape by planting hardy bulbs.&nbsp; Not only do these bulbs add color to our landscapes, but many of them provide pollinators with resources like nectar or pollen at a time when few other plants are blooming.Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs like tulip, allium, crocus, and daffodils in October through early November to give them enough time to root before winter.&nbsp; As long as the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs will continue root development during the fall. One easy way you can find out how warm the soil temperature is across various parts of the state is to visit our weather data library at&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="http://mesonet.k-state.edu/">http://mesonet.k-state.edu/</a>Selecting bulbs&nbsp;&nbsp;Garden centers often carry a selection of hardy bulbs in the fall and bulbs are also easy to mail order.&nbsp;&nbsp; When shopping, be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout.&nbsp; Big bulbs are always better and the difference in price almost always pays off with much better performance.If you are selecting bulbs for pollinators, it is best to choose unhybridized species to ensure that the flower retains its pollen and nectar.&nbsp; For example, retailers may offer a crocus species mix which would be preferred over the hybrids.&nbsp; Crocus, muscari, species-variety tulips and wild-type daffodils such as Narcissus poeticus or Narcissus jonquilla are examples of bulbs that are well-loved by bees.Planting bulbsPlant bulbs in a site that receives plenty of sunshine as 5-6 hours of sunlight are needed for the best flowering.&nbsp; Bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, but they do not tolerate poorly drained soil.&nbsp; This means it is usually necessary to prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix into the soil.&nbsp; Spread several inches of organic matter over the soil surface and till or spade it in.Adequate fertility is also essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past usually have high levels of phosphorus and potassium.&nbsp; In such cases, it is best to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 1/2 pound (1 cup) per 100 square feet before planting.The size and species of the bulb determines how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the planting hole should be about 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower.&nbsp; Planting too shallow may result in damage to the bulb caused by soil (frost) heaving during the winter.&nbsp; Water the bulbs after planting and monitor the soil for moisture if the fall/winter is dry but do not overwater as bulb rotting may result.Divide existing bulbsFall is also a good time to divide or move existing spring flowering bulbs. The clump should be dug, sorted by size and replanted at the same depth and in properly prepared soil.&nbsp; Sorting by size allows the smaller bulbs to compete better and have more space to develop. Flower size will also be about the same for a more uniform look. In many cases very small bulbs are best discarded as they may never reach flowering size.

GRAVES: Spring bulbs boost color, pollinator resources

By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District Horticulturist

When it comes to success with our plants in the garden and landscape here in Central Kansas, the soil is the place to start.  I like to tell gardeners “Grow the roots and the top will take care of itself”.

It is not a secret that soil health is what we gardeners want, but what can we do to actually build and create the healthy soil that seems so elusive?

If I could choose one practice to improve my garden soil it would be utilizing cover crops.  There are immense benefits to growing plants in our soil that are not meant to be harvested at all.  Cover crops are grown to build soil, prevent weeds, recycle soil nutrients, and even attract beneficial insects into the garden and landscape.

The reason cover crops are at the top of the list for building soil health is due to the power of living roots.  The rhizosphere is the soil layer where live plant roots interface with soil.  The rhizosphere is perhaps the most powerful place in the soil because this is where soil life thrives.

By soil life we mean microbes such as bacteria and fungi in numbers so vast we could never count them.  These microbes thrive in the rhizosphere because live plant roots feed them with sugars that are exuded through root tissues.

One thing that these microbes do in return is secrete ‘glues’ that begin to bind soil individual soil particles together into aggregates.  The microbes live in and on these aggregates, and aggregates form the circulatory system of the soil which allows both water and oxygen to move into and through the soil efficiently and effectively.

Every plant root cell requires both oxygen and water to thrive and so this beneficial arrangement between live plant roots and soil microbes leads to very robust and healthy plants if it can be fostered all year round.

As a note of caution, rototilling a garden too frequently is a certain way to destroy these carefully built soil aggregates and the networks of microbial life that created them

Early to mid-fall is a good time to plant a cool season cover crop in our gardens.  Many summer crops are finishing their life cycle or being removed from the garden now.  Rather than leave the soil bare-which is a desert for microbes-replace the plants being removed with a cover crop to keep living roots in the soil all winter long.

Crimson clover and winter wheat are two cover crops that can be planted separately or together in early October to keep live roots in the soil and create cover for our garden soils over the winter.  Annual ryegrass, hairy vetch, tillage radish, turnips, and mustard are other cool season cover crops found in seed mixes as well.

To establish cover crops, rake the soil and remove significant debris from the previous crop, broadcast seed at the rate recommended on the packet either by hand or with a broadcast seeder, rake the soil again ensure good seed to soil contact, and then water as necessary to maintain moisture and avoid soil crusting which can reduce emergence of finer seeded cover crops.

Cover crops that don’t winterkill will resume growth in the spring and can be mowed, cut with a string trimmer, and tilled or incorporated into the soil 10-14 days before planting warm season vegetables next spring.

To learn more about resources made available by K-State Research and Extension Central District and to find out more tips from Jason Graves, check out their website <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/">here.&nbsp;</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/10/1727967756985.jpeg" alt="Jason Graves" />
 <figcaption>Jason Graves</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES K-State Research and Extension Central District HorticulturistWhen it comes to success with our plants in the garden and landscape here in Central Kansas, the soil is the place to start. I like to tell gardeners “Grow the roots and the top will take care of itself”.It is not a secret that soil health is what we gardeners want, but what can we do to actually build and create the healthy soil that seems so elusive?<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/10/1727967900542.jpeg" alt="Wheat Crimson Clover Cover Crop. Image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Wheat Crimson Clover Cover Crop. Image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Cover crops</h2>If I could choose one practice to improve my garden soil it would be utilizing cover crops. There are immense benefits to growing plants in our soil that are not meant to be harvested at all. Cover crops are grown to build soil, prevent weeds, recycle soil nutrients, and even attract beneficial insects into the garden and landscape.<h2>Maximize continuous living roots</h2>The reason cover crops are at the top of the list for building soil health is due to the power of living roots. The rhizosphere is the soil layer where live plant roots interface with soil. The rhizosphere is perhaps the most powerful place in the soil because this is where soil life thrives.By soil life we mean microbes such as bacteria and fungi in numbers so vast we could never count them. These microbes thrive in the rhizosphere because live plant roots feed them with sugars that are exuded through root tissues.One thing that these microbes do in return is secrete ‘glues’ that begin to bind soil individual soil particles together into aggregates. The microbes live in and on these aggregates, and aggregates form the circulatory system of the soil which allows both water and oxygen to move into and through the soil efficiently and effectively.Every plant root cell requires both oxygen and water to thrive and so this beneficial arrangement between live plant roots and soil microbes leads to very robust and healthy plants if it can be fostered all year round.As a note of caution, rototilling a garden too frequently is a certain way to destroy these carefully built soil aggregates and the networks of microbial life that created them<h2>What to do this fall</h2>Early to mid-fall is a good time to plant a cool season cover crop in our gardens. Many summer crops are finishing their life cycle or being removed from the garden now. Rather than leave the soil bare-which is a desert for microbes-replace the plants being removed with a cover crop to keep living roots in the soil all winter long.Crimson clover and winter wheat are two cover crops that can be planted separately or together in early October to keep live roots in the soil and create cover for our garden soils over the winter. Annual ryegrass, hairy vetch, tillage radish, turnips, and mustard are other cool season cover crops found in seed mixes as well.<h2>Establishment</h2>To establish cover crops, rake the soil and remove significant debris from the previous crop, broadcast seed at the rate recommended on the packet either by hand or with a broadcast seeder, rake the soil again ensure good seed to soil contact, and then water as necessary to maintain moisture and avoid soil crusting which can reduce emergence of finer seeded cover crops.Cover crops that don’t winterkill will resume growth in the spring and can be mowed, cut with a string trimmer, and tilled or incorporated into the soil 10-14 days before planting warm season vegetables next spring.To learn more about resources made available by K-State Research and Extension Central District and to find out more tips from Jason Graves, check out their website <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/">here.&nbsp;</a>

GRAVES: Build garden soil health with fall cover crops

K-State Research and Extension Central District Horticulturalist

Kansas weather can be tough on the trees in our local landscapes. Many local homeowners, particularly those who lost trees during the late July windstorm that hit Salina, are now considering replacements. Early fall is an ideal time to plant new trees.

One advantage of fall planting is that soil temperatures are warmer, encouraging quicker root growth compared to the cooler spring soils. Trees planted in the fall can establish themselves more quickly, making them better prepared for the heat stress of the following summer.

Regardless of when a tree is planted, it is essential to follow proper planting procedures to give trees the best chance of survival. Many tree deaths can be attributed to mistakes made during the planting process.

Planting at the right time is important. Evergreen trees and shrubs should be planted sooner rather than later in the fall, as they need 5-6 weeks to establish before the first killing frost. Deciduous trees, which lose their leaves, can be planted later, but planting earlier allows them to benefit from warmer soil temperatures.

Avoid planting trees too deep. A common mistake is planting trees too deep, which can cause long-term root problems. The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the rootball, but slightly shallower than the rootball itself. The first root flare should be at ground level.

Containerized trees often have circling roots, which can cause girdling, where roots grow around and damage the trunk. These roots should be pruned or teased apart during planting to prevent future issues.

It’s important to use the original soil to backfill the planting hole. Avoid adding compost or other organic materials to the soil, as amending only the planting hole can disrupt water movement and slow root establishment.

Mulching the root zone with 2-4 inches of organic mulch helps protect the tree and promotes its establishment. However, the mulch should be kept away from the trunk to prevent disease and rodent damage.

Using tree wraps or guards on newly planted trees can help prevent cracking caused by winter temperature fluctuations. Additionally, staking may be necessary for taller or leggy trees.

Consistent watering is critical for newly planted trees. Regular watering should continue throughout the year, even during winter on warm days. The tree should be watered when the rootball begins to dry out, but overwatering should be avoided.

For more information on tree planting and recommended tree species for Central Kansas, visit <a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/3/1679357093779.jpeg" alt="KRSE planting trees" />
 <figcaption>KRSE planting trees</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVESK-State Research and Extension Central District Horticulturalist Kansas weather can be tough on the trees in our local landscapes. Many local homeowners, particularly those who lost trees during the late July windstorm that hit Salina, are now considering replacements. Early fall is an ideal time to plant new trees.One advantage of fall planting is that soil temperatures are warmer, encouraging quicker root growth compared to the cooler spring soils. Trees planted in the fall can establish themselves more quickly, making them better prepared for the heat stress of the following summer.Regardless of when a tree is planted, it is essential to follow proper planting procedures to give trees the best chance of survival. Many tree deaths can be attributed to mistakes made during the planting process.Planting at the right time is important. Evergreen trees and shrubs should be planted sooner rather than later in the fall, as they need 5-6 weeks to establish before the first killing frost. Deciduous trees, which lose their leaves, can be planted later, but planting earlier allows them to benefit from warmer soil temperatures.Avoid planting trees too deep. A common mistake is planting trees too deep, which can cause long-term root problems. The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the rootball, but slightly shallower than the rootball itself. The first root flare should be at ground level.Containerized trees often have circling roots, which can cause girdling, where roots grow around and damage the trunk. These roots should be pruned or teased apart during planting to prevent future issues.It’s important to use the original soil to backfill the planting hole. Avoid adding compost or other organic materials to the soil, as amending only the planting hole can disrupt water movement and slow root establishment.Mulching the root zone with 2-4 inches of organic mulch helps protect the tree and promotes its establishment. However, the mulch should be kept away from the trunk to prevent disease and rodent damage.Using tree wraps or guards on newly planted trees can help prevent cracking caused by winter temperature fluctuations. Additionally, staking may be necessary for taller or leggy trees.Consistent watering is critical for newly planted trees. Regular watering should continue throughout the year, even during winter on warm days. The tree should be watered when the rootball begins to dry out, but overwatering should be avoided.For more information on tree planting and recommended tree species for Central Kansas, visit <a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>

KSRE — Early Fall a prime time to plant trees

Growing flowers or veggies in your garden?&nbsp; Why not display them at the Tri-Rivers Fair.&nbsp; The horticulture open class division will accept entries this Tuesday, August 6 between 8 a.m. and noon.&nbsp; Bring the items you wish to exhibit to Kenwood Hall (use the back doors) to check them in at the fairgrounds.&nbsp; 

Exhibits will be judged at&nbsp; 1 p.m. and there are several cash prizes up for grabs in both the children and adult horticulture/floriculture divisions.

&nbsp; For information on prizes, what can be exhibited and what to bring you can visit the Tri-Rivers Fair website at&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://tririversfair.org/open-class/">tririversfair.org/open-class/</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/8/1722863515774.jpeg" alt="Open Class 2024.jpg" />
 <figcaption>Open Class 2024.jpg</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and ExtensionGrowing flowers or veggies in your garden?&nbsp; Why not display them at the Tri-Rivers Fair.&nbsp; The horticulture open class division will accept entries this Tuesday, August 6 between 8 a.m. and noon.&nbsp; Bring the items you wish to exhibit to Kenwood Hall (use the back doors) to check them in at the fairgrounds.&nbsp; Exhibits will be judged at&nbsp; 1 p.m. and there are several cash prizes up for grabs in both the children and adult horticulture/floriculture divisions.&nbsp; For information on prizes, what can be exhibited and what to bring you can visit the Tri-Rivers Fair website at&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://tririversfair.org/open-class/">tririversfair.org/open-class/</a>

Exhibit your flowers and vegetables at the Tri-Rivers Fair, deadline Aug. 6

If you enjoy gardening, learning, and giving back as a volunteer, consider becoming an Extension Master Gardener in 2024.&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension will be offering the 2024 Master Gardener Basic Training Course&nbsp;starting September 5.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Classes begin&nbsp;September 5 and will run each&nbsp;Thursday through December 5.&nbsp; This training will be held in a hybrid format online through zoom and will also include 5 in-person training days.&nbsp; Topics covered include: plant growth and development, soils, insects, diseases, pollinators, landscape maintenance, vegetables, growing fruit, turf management, native plants and biodiversity, annual and perennial flowers, and more.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Master Gardeners are K-State Research &amp; Extension volunteers who enjoy cultivating their own plants and gardens while sharing their skills and knowledge with the community around them to help others grow.&nbsp; Volunteering as an Extension Master Gardener is a wonderful way to enrich your life and the lives of others.

The decision to become a Master Gardener can be very rewarding.&nbsp; It is a decision to take your horticulture knowledge to the next level and it is a commitment to find creative ways to make a difference in our community while sharing that knowledge with the people and places around you.

Training is just one great benefit.&nbsp; Master Gardeners receive a 40-hour-plus horticulture training course from K-State Extension specialists and county Extension agents.&nbsp; The basic training provides a great starting point for those new to gardening, but is also in depth enough to apply to gardeners of any skill level.&nbsp; Other benefits of being a Master Gardener include the camaraderie of people who share similar passions, receiving ongoing horticulture training and support through K-State Research and Extension, and other local horticulture opportunities.

Once training is complete, Master Gardeners are encouraged to take their knowledge out to the community to share it with others in unique and meaningful ways.&nbsp; First year Master Gardeners volunteer 30 hours of time and during succeeding years have a commitment of just 20 hours to remain active.

Master Gardener volunteer time can be selected from current Master Gardener projects and can also be tailored to individual abilities and interests.&nbsp; Master Gardeners are encouraged to find their creativity in looking for ways to impact the community.&nbsp; A few activities many Master Gardeners enjoy volunteering on include: &nbsp;the demonstration garden, community gardens, county fairs, and educational garden tours and events.

Space for the course is limited and applications to join the course can be filled out online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and are&nbsp;due by August 31, 2024.&nbsp; &nbsp;Any questions about the 2024 Master Gardener Basic Training Course can be directed to Central Kansas District Horticulture Extension Agent Jason Graves at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:jlgraves@ksu.edu">jlgraves@ksu.edu</a>.&nbsp; We look forward to hearing from you!&nbsp; K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/7/1720788395003.jpeg" alt="KSRE" />
 <figcaption>KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>By SALINA POSTIf you enjoy gardening, learning, and giving back as a volunteer, consider becoming an Extension Master Gardener in 2024.&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension will be offering the 2024 Master Gardener Basic Training Course&nbsp;starting September 5.&nbsp;&nbsp;Classes begin&nbsp;September 5 and will run each&nbsp;Thursday through December 5.&nbsp; This training will be held in a hybrid format online through zoom and will also include 5 in-person training days.&nbsp; Topics covered include: plant growth and development, soils, insects, diseases, pollinators, landscape maintenance, vegetables, growing fruit, turf management, native plants and biodiversity, annual and perennial flowers, and more.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Who are Master Gardeners?Master Gardeners are K-State Research &amp; Extension volunteers who enjoy cultivating their own plants and gardens while sharing their skills and knowledge with the community around them to help others grow.&nbsp; Volunteering as an Extension Master Gardener is a wonderful way to enrich your life and the lives of others.Why become a Master Gardener?The decision to become a Master Gardener can be very rewarding.&nbsp; It is a decision to take your horticulture knowledge to the next level and it is a commitment to find creative ways to make a difference in our community while sharing that knowledge with the people and places around you.Training is just one great benefit.&nbsp; Master Gardeners receive a 40-hour-plus horticulture training course from K-State Extension specialists and county Extension agents.&nbsp; The basic training provides a great starting point for those new to gardening, but is also in depth enough to apply to gardeners of any skill level.&nbsp; Other benefits of being a Master Gardener include the camaraderie of people who share similar passions, receiving ongoing horticulture training and support through K-State Research and Extension, and other local horticulture opportunities.What about volunteering?Once training is complete, Master Gardeners are encouraged to take their knowledge out to the community to share it with others in unique and meaningful ways.&nbsp; First year Master Gardeners volunteer 30 hours of time and during succeeding years have a commitment of just 20 hours to remain active.Master Gardener volunteer time can be selected from current Master Gardener projects and can also be tailored to individual abilities and interests.&nbsp; Master Gardeners are encouraged to find their creativity in looking for ways to impact the community.&nbsp; A few activities many Master Gardeners enjoy volunteering on include: &nbsp;the demonstration garden, community gardens, county fairs, and educational garden tours and events.Apply onlineSpace for the course is limited and applications to join the course can be filled out online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and are&nbsp;due by August 31, 2024.&nbsp; &nbsp;Any questions about the 2024 Master Gardener Basic Training Course can be directed to Central Kansas District Horticulture Extension Agent Jason Graves at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:jlgraves@ksu.edu">jlgraves@ksu.edu</a>.&nbsp; We look forward to hearing from you!&nbsp; K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Master Gardener training begins September 5

<a href="mailto:melgares@ksu.edu" target="_blank">By PAT MELGARES</a> K-State Research and Extension news service

A program to help people in every Kansas county improve their access to nutritious foods will be hosting a two-day meeting in Wichita to connect communities with similar food issues.

The first-ever&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods/local-food-summit/">Kansas Local Food Summit</a>&nbsp;is scheduled for Aug. 27-28 at the&nbsp;<a href="https://kansasleadershipcenter.org/">Kansas Leadership Center</a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a href="https://kansashealth.org/">Kansas Health Foundation</a>&nbsp;in downtown Wichita.

Rebecca McMahon, administrator of the Local Food System program at Kansas State University, said the summit will allow people from communities across the state to learn what is working in other Kansas communities.

“It’s about giving communities across the state what they need to ensure that they have resilient farms, healthy people and vibrant economies,” McMahon said.

<a href="https://commerce.cashnet.com/cashnetg/static/storefront/KSUEXTPRG/catalog/KSFOODSUMMIT">Registration is available online</a>. The cost for the meeting is $40 for those who register by Aug. 1, and $50 after that date. The complete agenda for the summit also is available online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods/local-food-summit/agenda.html">www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods/local-food-summit/agenda.html</a>.

McMahon said the agenda includes numerous breakout sessions that allow participants to learn about successful efforts to fill gaps in local food systems, a term that refers to food that travels the entire supply chain – from production to consumption – in the same general area.

In Nov. 2022, K-State Research and Extension received a grant for $750,000 to support and enhance local food systems in Kansas. At the time, McMahon noted: “In a state that prides itself on feeding the world, we currently struggle to adequately feed and nourish our own residents.”

In the nearly 18 months since receiving the grant, K-State’s Local Food System team has conducted roundtable discussions in 11 communities, asking Kansans what they think is needed to overcome challenges in their local food systems.

The Kansas Local Food Summit will help to bring all of that knowledge together for the benefit of people who perceive gaps in their community’s local food system.

“Each community has its own unique opportunities and challenges, but we can make more progress when we learn together what works best for the people of Kansas,” McMahon said. “The summit will have lots of opportunities for networking and collaborative learning, as well as great speakers. Building a stronger network of people across the state is the first step towards more resilient local food systems.”

Numerous breakout sessions are planned to help bring Kansans together under common themes, including Farm to School, food access, food hubs, and more. Michelle Coats at OOCK and Daniel Craig with Tammy Walker Cancer Center will lead two of these breakout sessions.

John Wittler, executive director of the Ogallala Commons, who will speak on how to effectively coordinate the value chain for the benefit of the food system.

Mary Hendrickson, director of the Interdisciplinary Center for Food Security at the University of Missouri, who will speak on how to build a resilient food system in the face of consolidation.

McMahon said the Kansas Local Food Summit is open to anyone interested in attending, but will be particularly beneficial to those who support local food system growth, including producers, consumers, food policy council members, government agency workers, non-profit organizations, food businesses and others.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/7/1722003559876.jpeg" alt="The Kansas Local Food Summit will bring together people from communities across the state to discuss challenges and successes in providing access to food. Image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>The Kansas Local Food Summit will bring together people from communities across the state to discuss challenges and successes in providing access to food. Image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure><a href="mailto:melgares@ksu.edu" target="_blank">By PAT MELGARES</a> K-State Research and Extension news serviceA program to help people in every Kansas county improve their access to nutritious foods will be hosting a two-day meeting in Wichita to connect communities with similar food issues.The first-ever&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods/local-food-summit/">Kansas Local Food Summit</a>&nbsp;is scheduled for Aug. 27-28 at the&nbsp;<a href="https://kansasleadershipcenter.org/">Kansas Leadership Center</a>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<a href="https://kansashealth.org/">Kansas Health Foundation</a>&nbsp;in downtown Wichita.Rebecca McMahon, administrator of the Local Food System program at Kansas State University, said the summit will allow people from communities across the state to learn what is working in other Kansas communities.“It’s about giving communities across the state what they need to ensure that they have resilient farms, healthy people and vibrant economies,” McMahon said.<a href="https://commerce.cashnet.com/cashnetg/static/storefront/KSUEXTPRG/catalog/KSFOODSUMMIT">Registration is available online</a>. The cost for the meeting is $40 for those who register by Aug. 1, and $50 after that date. The complete agenda for the summit also is available online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods/local-food-summit/agenda.html">www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods/local-food-summit/agenda.html</a>.McMahon said the agenda includes numerous breakout sessions that allow participants to learn about successful efforts to fill gaps in local food systems, a term that refers to food that travels the entire supply chain – from production to consumption – in the same general area.In Nov. 2022, K-State Research and Extension received a grant for $750,000 to support and enhance local food systems in Kansas. At the time, McMahon noted: “In a state that prides itself on feeding the world, we currently struggle to adequately feed and nourish our own residents.”In the nearly 18 months since receiving the grant, K-State’s Local Food System team has conducted roundtable discussions in 11 communities, asking Kansans what they think is needed to overcome challenges in their local food systems.The Kansas Local Food Summit will help to bring all of that knowledge together for the benefit of people who perceive gaps in their community’s local food system.“Each community has its own unique opportunities and challenges, but we can make more progress when we learn together what works best for the people of Kansas,” McMahon said. “The summit will have lots of opportunities for networking and collaborative learning, as well as great speakers. Building a stronger network of people across the state is the first step towards more resilient local food systems.”Numerous breakout sessions are planned to help bring Kansans together under common themes, including Farm to School, food access, food hubs, and more. Michelle Coats at OOCK and Daniel Craig with Tammy Walker Cancer Center will lead two of these breakout sessions.The keynote speakers for the summit are:John Wittler, executive director of the Ogallala Commons, who will speak on how to effectively coordinate the value chain for the benefit of the food system.Mary Hendrickson, director of the Interdisciplinary Center for Food Security at the University of Missouri, who will speak on how to build a resilient food system in the face of consolidation.McMahon said the Kansas Local Food Summit is open to anyone interested in attending, but will be particularly beneficial to those who support local food system growth, including producers, consumers, food policy council members, government agency workers, non-profit organizations, food businesses and others.

First-ever Kansas Local Food Summit slated Aug. 27-28 in Wichita

Choose different varieties to prevent common problem, says K-State expert

K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the common problem of tomatoes cracking can be solved by scheduling watering or choosing different varieties.

K-State Research and Extension news service

Home gardeners face the problem of tomato cracking, or hard cracks on the upper part of the fruit, usually spanning from or around the stem.

While the cracks do not necessarily ruin the tomato, they are unsightly, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.

“Tomatoes have a root system that is very dense and fibrous, and is quite efficient in picking up water,” she said. “Unfortunately, the root system can become unbalanced with the top of the plant.”

Domenghini said cracking early in the season is likely related to the top growth of the tomato, which can then result in blossom-end rot when the weather turns hot and dry. Later in the season, cracking may be caused by a sudden abundance of water after a long dry spell.

How can cracking be prevented? Domenghini suggests consistent watering and mulching. Scheduled watering will prevent a quick influx of water likely to cause cracking. Additionally, mulching will help moderate moisture levels in the soil.

Some gardeners may be already following these recommendations and doing everything right, and still end up with tomato cracking. Faculty in K-State’s Department of Horticulture evaluated different tomato varieties over several years to try and come up with the most crack-resistant tomato.

“The difference seems to be the pliability of the skin rather than thickness; the more pliable the skin, the more resistance to cracking,” Domenghini said. “The old variety Jet Star has been the most crack-resistant of any we have tested, including the newer types.”

Unfortunately, Domenghini noted, Jet Star is a variety that can put out rampant, uncontrolled growth. Of the newer, more attractive varieties, Domenghini said the Mountain Spring, Mountain Pride, Mountain Fresh, Floralina, and Sun Leaper varieties had good resistance to cracking.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu">cdom@ksu.edu</a>,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/6/1718985074432.jpg" alt="tomatoes, vegetables, fresh" />
 <figcaption>tomatoes, vegetables, fresh</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Choose different varieties to prevent common problem, says K-State expert</h2>K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the common problem of tomatoes cracking can be solved by scheduling watering or choosing different varieties.K-State Research and Extension news serviceHome gardeners face the problem of tomato cracking, or hard cracks on the upper part of the fruit, usually spanning from or around the stem.While the cracks do not necessarily ruin the tomato, they are unsightly, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.“Tomatoes have a root system that is very dense and fibrous, and is quite efficient in picking up water,” she said. “Unfortunately, the root system can become unbalanced with the top of the plant.”Domenghini said cracking early in the season is likely related to the top growth of the tomato, which can then result in blossom-end rot when the weather turns hot and dry. Later in the season, cracking may be caused by a sudden abundance of water after a long dry spell.How can cracking be prevented? Domenghini suggests consistent watering and mulching. Scheduled watering will prevent a quick influx of water likely to cause cracking. Additionally, mulching will help moderate moisture levels in the soil.Some gardeners may be already following these recommendations and doing everything right, and still end up with tomato cracking. Faculty in K-State’s Department of Horticulture evaluated different tomato varieties over several years to try and come up with the most crack-resistant tomato.“The difference seems to be the pliability of the skin rather than thickness; the more pliable the skin, the more resistance to cracking,” Domenghini said. “The old variety Jet Star has been the most crack-resistant of any we have tested, including the newer types.”Unfortunately, Domenghini noted, Jet Star is a variety that can put out rampant, uncontrolled growth. Of the newer, more attractive varieties, Domenghini said the Mountain Spring, Mountain Pride, Mountain Fresh, Floralina, and Sun Leaper varieties had good resistance to cracking.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu">cdom@ksu.edu</a>,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

KSRE answers the question — is tomato cracking  preventable? 

A common problem many homeowners face is wasps taking up residence outside their homes. Kansas State University entomologist Raymond Cloyd says, however, that not all wasps are harmful.

“Wasps are beneficial and they are part of the ecosystem,” Cloyd said. “They are predators of many caterpillar pests and are docile overall. They will usually only sting if disturbed or agitated.”

Mud daubers and paper wasps are commonly seen around homes and will generally not attack people. However, yellow jackets will actually attack people.

Despite the beneficial role of wasps, many people may want to remove wasp nests to avoid the possibility of getting stung when outdoors. When considering removing wasp nests, Cloyd advises determining whether the nest is new or mature.

READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/a7ab0d2d-a695-4033-bc32-af76bab9455e">Danger near the bird feeder? K-State wildlife expert urges caution</a>

“If the home has a history of wasps building nests, such as in late spring or early summer, physically remove the nest when you see the nest being initially built,” Cloyd said.

New nests can be removed with minimal risk of being stung because there are usually fewer wasps present inside the new nest. Wasps generally do not rebuild nests in the same location, so physically removing the nest will avoid having to deal with nests in the future.

Spraying nests with an insecticide should be done at night when the wasps are inside the nest, Cloyd said.

If the nest is large, mature, and has been around for some time, Cloyd recommends contacting a pest management professional.

“In order to avoid getting stung, it is best to contact a pest management professional,” he said.

Cloyd said that it is important to correctly identify the wasp that is creating the nest. He recommends contacting your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;and either describing the insect over the phone or sending pictures via email.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/7/1720709369359.jpeg" alt="Homeowners often dread finding wasp nests around their houses due to their infamous stinging abilities. Raymond Cloyd, K-State entomologist, explains how to remove wasp nests and encourages people to contact pest control professionals before acting. Image Courtesy K-State Research and Extension news service" />
 <figcaption>Homeowners often dread finding wasp nests around their houses due to their infamous stinging abilities. Raymond Cloyd, K-State entomologist, explains how to remove wasp nests and encourages people to contact pest control professionals before acting. Image Courtesy K-State Research and Extension news service</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension news serviceA common problem many homeowners face is wasps taking up residence outside their homes. Kansas State University entomologist Raymond Cloyd says, however, that not all wasps are harmful.“Wasps are beneficial and they are part of the ecosystem,” Cloyd said. “They are predators of many caterpillar pests and are docile overall. They will usually only sting if disturbed or agitated.”Mud daubers and paper wasps are commonly seen around homes and will generally not attack people. However, yellow jackets will actually attack people.Despite the beneficial role of wasps, many people may want to remove wasp nests to avoid the possibility of getting stung when outdoors. When considering removing wasp nests, Cloyd advises determining whether the nest is new or mature.READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/a7ab0d2d-a695-4033-bc32-af76bab9455e">Danger near the bird feeder? K-State wildlife expert urges caution</a>“If the home has a history of wasps building nests, such as in late spring or early summer, physically remove the nest when you see the nest being initially built,” Cloyd said.New nests can be removed with minimal risk of being stung because there are usually fewer wasps present inside the new nest. Wasps generally do not rebuild nests in the same location, so physically removing the nest will avoid having to deal with nests in the future.Spraying nests with an insecticide should be done at night when the wasps are inside the nest, Cloyd said.If the nest is large, mature, and has been around for some time, Cloyd recommends contacting a pest management professional.“In order to avoid getting stung, it is best to contact a pest management professional,” he said.Cloyd said that it is important to correctly identify the wasp that is creating the nest. He recommends contacting your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;and either describing the insect over the phone or sending pictures via email.

K-State expert explains how to protect your home from wasps

Series will help local food growers produce strong, healthy crops

A trip through the local Farmers Market often provides a delicious array of temptation at every stand.

Think of luscious red tomatoes. Burley squash. Bright orange carrots. Ripe, ruby-red watermelon.

But the appeal of the Farmers Market and other wholesale food markets hasn’t happened by chance. Getting local food to market often requires a great deal of thought and care back on the farm, says Margit Kaltenekker, agriculture agent at K-State Research and Extension’s office in Douglas County.

“Bringing produce from the seed to the shelf and to your table prompts a romantic view of farm life,” she said. “Yet little do most realize just how much diligent effort and tough work is put forth on part of producers to bring those crops to fruition.”

Kaltenekker is part of a group that is hosting a series of three workshops to help local producers get the most of their harvest.

<a href="https://lp.constantcontactpages.com/ev/reg/a2kw3ew/lp/c3274feb-6caa-447b-9100-6206936cd752">The Kansas Specialty Crop Producers workshop</a>&nbsp;kicks off on July 8 at Juniper Hill Farms in Lawrence (1547 N. 2000 Road). The workshop costs $10 and begins at 6 p.m. with a presentation by Kansas State University entomologist Raymond Cloyd, who will give a talk on dealing with bug problems in tomato production systems.

K-State plant pathologist Megan Kennelly will also talk about how to identify and manage common tomato diseases.

Kaltenekker said the workshop comes at a time when many local food producers are beginning to bring tomatoes into production, though the information will also help in sustaining production.

“Keeping fruits and vegetable crops health ensures they will produce strong, excellent yields of superb quality through the season, which brings a return for producers’ efforts,” she said.

READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/011b7f20-9fed-4cde-b36f-2ea40001351e">Saline County residents share testimony for better broadband access at recent Broadband Community Forum</a>

Additional workshops in the series include:

July 22 – Understanding pesticides. Z&amp;M Twisted Vines Winery (24305 Loring Road in Lawrence). 6 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Aug. 12 – Pollinators and Pesticides. Table View Farm (840 Shawnee Road in Pomona). 6 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Kaltenekker said in addition to learning from the speakers, growers will have an opportunity to ask questions related to their own challenges, as well as network with other producers.

The workshops are sponsored by K-State Research and Extension, Kansas Specialty Crop Growers Association, Growing Lawrence, Growing Growers, and conservation districts in Douglas and Miami counties.

More information on the workshop series&nbsp;<a href="https://lp.constantcontactpages.com/ev/reg/a2kw3ew/lp/c3274feb-6caa-447b-9100-6206936cd752">is available online</a>,&nbsp;or by contacting Kaltenekker at 785-843-7058, or&nbsp;<a href="mailto:mkaltenekker@ksu.edu">mkaltenekker@ksu.edu</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/7/1720358296936.jpeg" alt="Healthy produce at the local Farmers Market is a result of a lot of work and special care. Image courtesy K-State Research and Extension news service" />
 <figcaption>Healthy produce at the local Farmers Market is a result of a lot of work and special care. Image courtesy K-State Research and Extension news service</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension news service<h2>Series will help local food growers produce strong, healthy crops</h2>A trip through the local Farmers Market often provides a delicious array of temptation at every stand.Think of luscious red tomatoes. Burley squash. Bright orange carrots. Ripe, ruby-red watermelon.But the appeal of the Farmers Market and other wholesale food markets hasn’t happened by chance. Getting local food to market often requires a great deal of thought and care back on the farm, says Margit Kaltenekker, agriculture agent at K-State Research and Extension’s office in Douglas County.“Bringing produce from the seed to the shelf and to your table prompts a romantic view of farm life,” she said. “Yet little do most realize just how much diligent effort and tough work is put forth on part of producers to bring those crops to fruition.”Kaltenekker is part of a group that is hosting a series of three workshops to help local producers get the most of their harvest.<a href="https://lp.constantcontactpages.com/ev/reg/a2kw3ew/lp/c3274feb-6caa-447b-9100-6206936cd752">The Kansas Specialty Crop Producers workshop</a>&nbsp;kicks off on July 8 at Juniper Hill Farms in Lawrence (1547 N. 2000 Road). The workshop costs $10 and begins at 6 p.m. with a presentation by Kansas State University entomologist Raymond Cloyd, who will give a talk on dealing with bug problems in tomato production systems.K-State plant pathologist Megan Kennelly will also talk about how to identify and manage common tomato diseases.Kaltenekker said the workshop comes at a time when many local food producers are beginning to bring tomatoes into production, though the information will also help in sustaining production.“Keeping fruits and vegetable crops health ensures they will produce strong, excellent yields of superb quality through the season, which brings a return for producers’ efforts,” she said.READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/011b7f20-9fed-4cde-b36f-2ea40001351e">Saline County residents share testimony for better broadband access at recent Broadband Community Forum</a><h2>Additional workshops in the series include:</h2>July 22 – Understanding pesticides. Z&amp;M Twisted Vines Winery (24305 Loring Road in Lawrence). 6 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.Aug. 12 – Pollinators and Pesticides. Table View Farm (840 Shawnee Road in Pomona). 6 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.Kaltenekker said in addition to learning from the speakers, growers will have an opportunity to ask questions related to their own challenges, as well as network with other producers.The workshops are sponsored by K-State Research and Extension, Kansas Specialty Crop Growers Association, Growing Lawrence, Growing Growers, and conservation districts in Douglas and Miami counties.More information on the workshop series&nbsp;<a href="https://lp.constantcontactpages.com/ev/reg/a2kw3ew/lp/c3274feb-6caa-447b-9100-6206936cd752">is available online</a>,&nbsp;or by contacting Kaltenekker at 785-843-7058, or&nbsp;<a href="mailto:mkaltenekker@ksu.edu">mkaltenekker@ksu.edu</a>.

Kansas Specialty Crop Producers workshops kick off July 8

It’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.

“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” Domenghini said. “Usually, male flowers appear first in the season. Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base.”

Domenghini suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.

“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit,” Domenghini said.

To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. Domenghini recommends marking that flower and making note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.

She added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.

“(Pollinators) are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If using herbicides, apply them in the evening when the flowers have closed for the day,” Domenghini said.

Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.

“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” she said.

Domenghini said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.

“Applying nitrogen promotes vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” she said.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;Horticulture Newsletter&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;view online&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/7/1720192878663.jpg" alt="Many garden crops have separate male and female flowers on each plant; both are needed for pollination to take place, says K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini. Image courtesy of Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Many garden crops have separate male and female flowers on each plant; both are needed for pollination to take place, says K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini. Image courtesy of Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension news serviceIt’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” Domenghini said. “Usually, male flowers appear first in the season. Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base.”Domenghini suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit,” Domenghini said.To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. Domenghini recommends marking that flower and making note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.She added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.“(Pollinators) are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If using herbicides, apply them in the evening when the flowers have closed for the day,” Domenghini said.Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” she said.Domenghini said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.“Applying nitrogen promotes vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” she said.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;Horticulture Newsletter&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;view online&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can subscribe to the weekly newsletter, or submit their garden and yard-related questions, by sending email to Domenghini at&nbsp;cdom@ksu.edu,&nbsp;More information also is available at your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

KSRE in the garden: Why is my crop not producing fruit?

Bird feeders are a great way to enjoy nature without leaving your front porch, and many homeowners understand the joys of seeing multiple bird species frequent the feeders.

But Kansas State University wildlife specialist Drew Ricketts said bird feeders also can attract predators and other wildlife into your yard.

For example, racoons are seven times more likely to enter the yard and deer are two times more likely if you have a bird feeder.

“Carnivores, such as coyotes and red foxes and those sorts of critters, are at least one and a half times more likely to be in yards with bird feeders,” Ricketts said.

“Folks often times are inadvertently attracting critters to the yard, and that can cause problems that don't have anything to do with the bird feeder. One of the things that I would suggest to those folks is to think about how they might be contributing to that situation by having food available in the yard.” Ricketts said.

At least once a year, Ricketts said he gets a call from people who are wanting to know how to get rid of a hawk that is hanging around their yard, preying on birds. He said there is nothing you can do because an increase in a prey species often leads to an increase in a predator species.

“Feeding birds is something people do for themselves and it might have unintended negative consequences.” Ricketts said.

According to Ricketts, bird feeders allow such predators as domesticated cats and hawks, to take advantage of the condensed hunting grounds around the feeder.

Even though we worry that birds are hungry during the winter, feeding birds may also have unintended consequences for the birds that are eating it.

READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/6a4e3cd9-a93e-40de-ab9a-856ed8613326">🎙King in the Community Podcast — Jane Anderson, Update on Smoky Hill River Renewal Project funding</a>

According to Ricketts, birds don't need to be fed in the winter. A study that looked at birds' reproductive performance showed that birds being fed in the winter time hatched chicks that weighed less and had a lower survival rate than birds that did not have access to feeders.

Ricketts said concentrating birds in one area around a feeder can also be a hot spot for parasites and diseases. Two examples from scientific studies show an increase in diseases like avian pox and infections of lice and mites.

For those who want to keep birds coming around, Ricketts suggests washing bird feeders thoroughly every 24 hours with 10% bleach, and rinsing them well to remove the bleach odor.

More information on managing common wildlife animals in Kansas is available online from&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/">K-State Research and Extension.</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/6/1717787051937.png" alt="bird-feeder.png" />
 <figcaption>bird-feeder.png</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension news serviceBird feeders are a great way to enjoy nature without leaving your front porch, and many homeowners understand the joys of seeing multiple bird species frequent the feeders.But Kansas State University wildlife specialist Drew Ricketts said bird feeders also can attract predators and other wildlife into your yard.For example, racoons are seven times more likely to enter the yard and deer are two times more likely if you have a bird feeder.“Carnivores, such as coyotes and red foxes and those sorts of critters, are at least one and a half times more likely to be in yards with bird feeders,” Ricketts said. “Folks often times are inadvertently attracting critters to the yard, and that can cause problems that don't have anything to do with the bird feeder. One of the things that I would suggest to those folks is to think about how they might be contributing to that situation by having food available in the yard.” Ricketts said.At least once a year, Ricketts said he gets a call from people who are wanting to know how to get rid of a hawk that is hanging around their yard, preying on birds. He said there is nothing you can do because an increase in a prey species often leads to an increase in a predator species.“Feeding birds is something people do for themselves and it might have unintended negative consequences.” Ricketts said.According to Ricketts, bird feeders allow such predators as domesticated cats and hawks, to take advantage of the condensed hunting grounds around the feeder.Even though we worry that birds are hungry during the winter, feeding birds may also have unintended consequences for the birds that are eating it.READ MORE:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/6a4e3cd9-a93e-40de-ab9a-856ed8613326">🎙King in the Community Podcast — Jane Anderson, Update on Smoky Hill River Renewal Project funding</a>According to Ricketts, birds don't need to be fed in the winter. A study that looked at birds' reproductive performance showed that birds being fed in the winter time hatched chicks that weighed less and had a lower survival rate than birds that did not have access to feeders.Ricketts said concentrating birds in one area around a feeder can also be a hot spot for parasites and diseases. Two examples from scientific studies show an increase in diseases like avian pox and infections of lice and mites.For those who want to keep birds coming around, Ricketts suggests washing bird feeders thoroughly every 24 hours with 10% bleach, and rinsing them well to remove the bleach odor.More information on managing common wildlife animals in Kansas is available online from&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/">K-State Research and Extension.</a>

Danger near the bird feeder? K-State wildlife expert urges caution

Fungal diseases can affect the year’s tomato harvest, Domenghini says

By PAT&nbsp; MELGARES <a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/news-and-publications/news/stories/2024/06/horticulture-tomato-fungal-diseases.html">K-State Research and Extension News Service</a>

Anticipating the upcoming tomato harvest, gardeners need to stay on the lookout for a pair of fungi that threaten to rob the bounty, according to Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.

Warm, humid weather and heavy rainfall — conditions witnessed in many parts of Kansas the past week — favor the development of Septoria leaf spot and early blight, she said.

“Septoria leaf spot appears initially as small, water-soaked spots on the lower leaves,” Domenghini said. “The centers of the spots turn light tan or gray, while the margins remain dark. Dark-colored fungal fruiting structures form in the spots, which are typically smaller and more numerous than early blight spots.”

Early blight symptoms appear as irregular, brown lesions or spots on the leaves up to one-half inch in diameter.

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</div></div><h2>Fungal diseases can affect the year’s tomato harvest, Domenghini says</h2>By PAT&nbsp; MELGARES <a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/news-and-publications/news/stories/2024/06/horticulture-tomato-fungal-diseases.html">K-State Research and Extension News Service</a>Anticipating the upcoming tomato harvest, gardeners need to stay on the lookout for a pair of fungi that threaten to rob the bounty, according to Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.Warm, humid weather and heavy rainfall — conditions witnessed in many parts of Kansas the past week — favor the development of Septoria leaf spot and early blight, she said.“Septoria leaf spot appears initially as small, water-soaked spots on the lower leaves,” Domenghini said. “The centers of the spots turn light tan or gray, while the margins remain dark. Dark-colored fungal fruiting structures form in the spots, which are typically smaller and more numerous than early blight spots.”Early blight symptoms appear as irregular, brown lesions or spots on the leaves up to one-half inch in diameter.“The dark concentric rings in the lesions give the spots a target-like appearance,” Domenghini said. “This is a distinguishing symptom to identify the disease.”LISTEN:&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/posts/eae10ec3-c65e-4809-9b6a-33c0ab90fe57">🎙King in the Community — Dr. Matt Thompson, KWU President/CEO</a>She added that several lesions can merge together and cause the leaf to yellow, dry up and drop prematurely.“Leaf drop reduces the plant’s ability to photosynthesize, thus reducing the energy and vigor of the plant,” Domenghini said. “It can also expose fruit to an increased risk of sunscald. Early blight lesions can develop on the stem and fruit, as well.”Domenghini said that, in Kansas, Septoria leaf spot tends to be more common than early blight. More information on the two diseases is available in a publication available from the K-State Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources titled,&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/common-pest-problems/documents/Early%20Blight%20of%20Tomatoes.pdf">Early Blight and Septoria Leaf Spot</a>.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">weekly Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens.Interested persons can subscribe to the newsletter, as well as send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu">cdom@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations/">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.