K-State horticulture expert shares management tips for homeowners whose trees were damaged by recent storms.

By&nbsp;<a href="mailto:maddy23@ksu.edu">MADDY ROHR </a>K-State Research and Extension news service

Recent storms across the Midwest left many homeowners with damaged trees from heavy wind&nbsp;and rain. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini shares tips to manage storm-damaged trees:

Not all trees should be salvaged.&nbsp;Trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive.

“Trees with so many broken limbs that the structure is altered may best be replaced,” Domenghini said. “Though these trees may produce new growth, they are under such extreme stress they are much more susceptible to diseases/pests and can be dangerous due to increased risk for further breaks.”

Prune broken branches to the next large branch or the trunk. Domenghini cautions against cutting branches flush with the trunk, cut to the collar area where the branch attaches to the trunk.

“Cutting flush to the trunk creates a larger wound that takes longer to heal,” Domenghini said.

Cut back large limbs progressively.&nbsp;The first cut should be made on the underside of the branch about 15 inches away from the trunk. Cut about one-third of the way through the limb.

The second cut should be made on top of the branch but about two inches further away from the trunk, creating an angle when joined with the first cut. This will cause the branch to break away.

The third cut should be made at the collar to remove the resulting stub.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/5/1714655748355.png" alt="Managing storm-damaged trees K-State expert says not all trees should be salvaged. Storm-damaged trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive. Image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Managing storm-damaged trees K-State expert says not all trees should be salvaged. Storm-damaged trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive. Image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State horticulture expert shares management tips for homeowners whose trees were damaged by recent storms.</h2>By&nbsp;<a href="mailto:maddy23@ksu.edu">MADDY ROHR </a>K-State Research and Extension news serviceRecent storms across the Midwest left many homeowners with damaged trees from heavy wind&nbsp;and rain. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini shares tips to manage storm-damaged trees:Not all trees should be salvaged.&nbsp;Trees with bark that has split and exposed the cambium or those where the main trunk has split are not likely to survive.“Trees with so many broken limbs that the structure is altered may best be replaced,” Domenghini said. “Though these trees may produce new growth, they are under such extreme stress they are much more susceptible to diseases/pests and can be dangerous due to increased risk for further breaks.”Prune broken branches to the next large branch or the trunk. Domenghini cautions against cutting branches flush with the trunk, cut to the collar area where the branch attaches to the trunk.“Cutting flush to the trunk creates a larger wound that takes longer to heal,” Domenghini said.Cut back large limbs progressively.&nbsp;The first cut should be made on the underside of the branch about 15 inches away from the trunk. Cut about one-third of the way through the limb.The second cut should be made on top of the branch but about two inches further away from the trunk, creating an angle when joined with the first cut. This will cause the branch to break away.The third cut should be made at the collar to remove the resulting stub.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

KSRE — Tips to managing storm damaged trees

It may seem trivial, but home gardeners who choose to use plastic mulch may want to note the advantages that research has shown for colored mulches over the more traditional black plastic mulch.

Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said plastic mulches have long been known to provide advantages for the vegetable grower, including earlier fruiting, increased yields and weed control.

Research is showing that some crops do even better when colored plastic mulches are used. For one of Kansas gardener’s favorites – tomatoes – the color choice is…red. (Surprise!)

“Though normally there is an increase in production of marketable fruit with red mulch over black mulch, the amount of the increase varies with the type of (weather) we have,” Domenghini said. “There may be no increase during years of near-perfect weather, or up to a 20% increase with less favorable growing conditions. An average expected increase is about 12%.”

According to Domenghini, the steps for applying plastic mulch include:

⦁ Place a trickle irrigation line near the center of where the mulch will lay. The plastic will prevent rainwater or overhead irrigation from reaching the plants.

⦁ Construct trenches for the outer six inches of the plastic mulch. This allows the center of the bed to be undisturbed with the edges of the mulch draping down into the trench.

⦁ Fill the trenches to cover the edges of the mulch. This will prevent wind from catching and blowing the mulch. If the soil has been tilled, use a hoe to prepare the trenches.

Commercial growers have a mulch-laying machine to apply the trickle irrigation line and mulch in one step. Home gardeners must do this by hand.

The downside of plastic mulch is disposal, Domenghini adds.

“Availability of biodegradable plastic mulches will likely increase in years to come,” Domenghini said. “Some gardeners are able to re-use their plastic mulch for multiple years but as soil covers the top it reduces the efficacy of weed prevention.”

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter </a>with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at cdom@ksu.edu, or contact your <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/">local K-State Research and Extension office.</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/4/1712582366494.png" alt=" K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said plastic mulches have long been known to provide advantages for the vegetable grower, including earlier fruiting, increased yields and weed control. Some crops do even better with colored mulches." />
 <figcaption> K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said plastic mulches have long been known to provide advantages for the vegetable grower, including earlier fruiting, increased yields and weed control. Some crops do even better with colored mulches.</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Horticulture NewsletterIt may seem trivial, but home gardeners who choose to use plastic mulch may want to note the advantages that research has shown for colored mulches over the more traditional black plastic mulch.Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said plastic mulches have long been known to provide advantages for the vegetable grower, including earlier fruiting, increased yields and weed control.Research is showing that some crops do even better when colored plastic mulches are used. For one of Kansas gardener’s favorites – tomatoes – the color choice is…red. (Surprise!)“Though normally there is an increase in production of marketable fruit with red mulch over black mulch, the amount of the increase varies with the type of (weather) we have,” Domenghini said. “There may be no increase during years of near-perfect weather, or up to a 20% increase with less favorable growing conditions. An average expected increase is about 12%.”According to Domenghini, the steps for applying plastic mulch include:⦁ Prepare the soil.⦁ Place a trickle irrigation line near the center of where the mulch will lay. The plastic will prevent rainwater or overhead irrigation from reaching the plants.⦁ Construct trenches for the outer six inches of the plastic mulch. This allows the center of the bed to be undisturbed with the edges of the mulch draping down into the trench.⦁ Fill the trenches to cover the edges of the mulch. This will prevent wind from catching and blowing the mulch. If the soil has been tilled, use a hoe to prepare the trenches.Commercial growers have a mulch-laying machine to apply the trickle irrigation line and mulch in one step. Home gardeners must do this by hand.The downside of plastic mulch is disposal, Domenghini adds.“Availability of biodegradable plastic mulches will likely increase in years to come,” Domenghini said. “Some gardeners are able to re-use their plastic mulch for multiple years but as soil covers the top it reduces the efficacy of weed prevention.”Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter </a>with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at cdom@ksu.edu, or contact your <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/">local K-State Research and Extension office.</a>

KSRE — Colored plastic mulches may provide boost to garden crops

K-State expert urges proactive approach to preventing weeds

By MADDY ROHR K-State Research and Extension news service

&nbsp;Fighting weeds in the lawn can be an all-season battle. Still, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said preventive measures can be taken now to prevent a weed invasion later.

Below are common reasons why weeds invade lawns:

⦁ Improper mowing: Mowing too low and too infrequently thins the turf, allowing weeds to get started.

⦁ Improper watering: Frequent watering encourages weed seed germination, disease, thatch, and a shallow-rooted turf that is less competitive with weeds for soil moisture and nutrients.

⦁ Improper fertilizing: Fertilizing too much, too little or at the wrong time may benefit weeds more than grass.

⦁ Insect and disease Injury: Weeds rapidly invade lawns that are thinned by insects and diseases.

⦁ Compacted soil: Soil compaction is a hidden stress on the turfgrass root system. The grass is unable to compete effectively with weeds.

⦁ Excessive wear: Turf areas used for recreation and sports are subjected to wear and compaction.

⦁ Wrong kind of grass: The wrong kind of grass for the location will gradually decline and be invaded by weeds.

⦁ Environmental stress: Weeds often take over a lawn after it has been weakened and thinned from weather-related stress.

⦁ Thatch: Excessive thatch causes shallow-rooted grass and contributes to insect and disease problems.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at cdom@ksu.edu, or contact your local K-State Research and Extension office.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/4/1711977062660.png" alt="K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini provides tips to prevent weed invasions in the home lawn. Photo Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini provides tips to prevent weed invasions in the home lawn. Photo Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State expert urges proactive approach to preventing weeds</h2>By MADDY ROHR K-State Research and Extension news service&nbsp;Fighting weeds in the lawn can be an all-season battle. Still, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said preventive measures can be taken now to prevent a weed invasion later.Below are common reasons why weeds invade lawns:⦁ Improper mowing: Mowing too low and too infrequently thins the turf, allowing weeds to get started.⦁ Improper watering: Frequent watering encourages weed seed germination, disease, thatch, and a shallow-rooted turf that is less competitive with weeds for soil moisture and nutrients.⦁ Improper fertilizing: Fertilizing too much, too little or at the wrong time may benefit weeds more than grass.⦁ Insect and disease Injury: Weeds rapidly invade lawns that are thinned by insects and diseases.⦁ Compacted soil: Soil compaction is a hidden stress on the turfgrass root system. The grass is unable to compete effectively with weeds.⦁ Excessive wear: Turf areas used for recreation and sports are subjected to wear and compaction.⦁ Wrong kind of grass: The wrong kind of grass for the location will gradually decline and be invaded by weeds.⦁ Environmental stress: Weeds often take over a lawn after it has been weakened and thinned from weather-related stress.⦁ Thatch: Excessive thatch causes shallow-rooted grass and contributes to insect and disease problems.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at cdom@ksu.edu, or contact your local K-State Research and Extension office.

KSRE shares tips for managing a home lawn weed invasion 

Invasive species are forcing out native vegetation, says state forest health expert

&nbsp;A Kansas Forest Service official is urging Kansans to be on the lookout for the Callery pear tree and bush honeysuckle, a pair of invasive species that threaten the state’s forests and ecosystems by pushing out native vegetation.

<a href="mailto:melgares@ksu.edu" target="_blank">By PAT MELGARES</a> K-State Research and Extension news service

A Kansas Forest Service official is urging Kansans to be on the lookout for a pair of invasive species that threaten the state’s forests and ecosystems by pushing out native vegetation.

Ryan Rastok, the forest health coordinator with KFS, said Callery pear and bush honeysuckle are especially meddlesome this time of year.

“I was flying back from Georgia into Kansas City recently and as we were flying into the airport, I could see an abundance of callery pear, even from the plane,” Rastok said.

For a brief time – often in early April – the Callery pear puts on a stunning display of white flowers. But behind the beauty belies a menace.

Native to China, the Callery pear includes 26 cultivars that present significant ecological concerns in Kansas and Missouri. Among them:

It displaces native trees and plants in the wild, which lowers ecologocial biodiversity. The tree does not host native pollinators.

It leafs out before woodland wildflowers emerge from dormancy, robbing them of critical sunlight and preventing their growth.

 Its’ egg-shaped structure – at heights of 30-40 feet – and brittle wood make it prone to falling limbs that can damage people and property.

“Yeah, there’s been a myriad of descriptions for the smell, most of them vile and maybe some not appropriate to say out loud,” he said.

Rastok said the Kansas Forest Service and several partners are sponsoring a Callery pear ‘buyback’ in late April and early May. To qualify, landowners must cut down a blooming Callery pear tree, and send in a photo. Supplies are limited, but landowners may receive an option for one of nearly a dozen replacement trees at no cost.

More information is available at&nbsp;<a href="https://deeproots.org/callery-pear-events">https://deeproots.org/callery-pear-events</a>.

Bush Honeysuckle is another invasive that Rastok urges homeowners to identify and remove. The shrub spreads up to 15-20 feet in height with flowers that change from white to yellow; juicy red berries; and opposite, simple leaves that green up much earlier than surrounding native vegetation.

The shrub typically flowers in May or June, and unlike the Callery pear, is more fragrant.

Rastok said not counting such human activities as urban sprawl and others, bush honeysuckle “is the biggest threat to our native forests and ecosystems in Kansas, and it’s continuing to spread so we need to keep the pressure on that one, as well. The biggest issue right now is that it’s starting to establish in the state’s woodlands where it will eventually push out our native vegetation…it simplifies the ecosystem by lowering its overall floral and faunal diversity.”

Neither the Callery pear nor the bush honeysuckle are easily managed by prescribed burning, Rastok said. More information on controls, and options for replenishing areas where trees have been removed, is available from the Kansas Forest Service,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.kansasforests.org/">www.kansasforests.org</a>, or by contacting Rastok,&nbsp;<a href="mailto:rrastok@ksu.edu">rrastok@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or 785-410-0399.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/3/1711373470920.jpeg" alt="Bush honeysuckle spreads up to 15-20 feet in height with flowers that change from white to yellow. Photo courtesy of Kansas Forest Service" />
 <figcaption>Bush honeysuckle spreads up to 15-20 feet in height with flowers that change from white to yellow. Photo courtesy of Kansas Forest Service</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Invasive species are forcing out native vegetation, says state forest health expert</h2>&nbsp;A Kansas Forest Service official is urging Kansans to be on the lookout for the Callery pear tree and bush honeysuckle, a pair of invasive species that threaten the state’s forests and ecosystems by pushing out native vegetation.<a href="mailto:melgares@ksu.edu" target="_blank">By PAT MELGARES</a> K-State Research and Extension news serviceA Kansas Forest Service official is urging Kansans to be on the lookout for a pair of invasive species that threaten the state’s forests and ecosystems by pushing out native vegetation.Ryan Rastok, the forest health coordinator with KFS, said Callery pear and bush honeysuckle are especially meddlesome this time of year.“I was flying back from Georgia into Kansas City recently and as we were flying into the airport, I could see an abundance of callery pear, even from the plane,” Rastok said.For a brief time – often in early April – the Callery pear puts on a stunning display of white flowers. But behind the beauty belies a menace.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/3/1711373520967.jpeg" alt="Callery pear tree in full bloom. Photo courtesy of Kansas Forest Service" />
 <figcaption>Callery pear tree in full bloom. Photo courtesy of Kansas Forest Service</figcaption>
 </figure>Native to China, the Callery pear includes 26 cultivars that present significant ecological concerns in Kansas and Missouri. Among them:It displaces native trees and plants in the wild, which lowers ecologocial biodiversity. The tree does not host native pollinators.It leafs out before woodland wildflowers emerge from dormancy, robbing them of critical sunlight and preventing their growth. Its’ egg-shaped structure – at heights of 30-40 feet – and brittle wood make it prone to falling limbs that can damage people and property.And, Rastok says, it smells.“Yeah, there’s been a myriad of descriptions for the smell, most of them vile and maybe some not appropriate to say out loud,” he said.Rastok said the Kansas Forest Service and several partners are sponsoring a Callery pear ‘buyback’ in late April and early May. To qualify, landowners must cut down a blooming Callery pear tree, and send in a photo. Supplies are limited, but landowners may receive an option for one of nearly a dozen replacement trees at no cost.More information is available at&nbsp;<a href="https://deeproots.org/callery-pear-events">https://deeproots.org/callery-pear-events</a>.Bush Honeysuckle is another invasive that Rastok urges homeowners to identify and remove. The shrub spreads up to 15-20 feet in height with flowers that change from white to yellow; juicy red berries; and opposite, simple leaves that green up much earlier than surrounding native vegetation.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/3/1711373552517.jpeg" alt="Bush honeysuckle with red berries.&nbsp;(Photo courtesy of Kansas Forest Service)&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Bush honeysuckle with red berries.&nbsp;(Photo courtesy of Kansas Forest Service)&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>The shrub typically flowers in May or June, and unlike the Callery pear, is more fragrant.Rastok said not counting such human activities as urban sprawl and others, bush honeysuckle “is the biggest threat to our native forests and ecosystems in Kansas, and it’s continuing to spread so we need to keep the pressure on that one, as well. The biggest issue right now is that it’s starting to establish in the state’s woodlands where it will eventually push out our native vegetation…it simplifies the ecosystem by lowering its overall floral and faunal diversity.”Neither the Callery pear nor the bush honeysuckle are easily managed by prescribed burning, Rastok said. More information on controls, and options for replenishing areas where trees have been removed, is available from the Kansas Forest Service,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.kansasforests.org/">www.kansasforests.org</a>, or by contacting Rastok,&nbsp;<a href="mailto:rrastok@ksu.edu">rrastok@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or 785-410-0399.

Forest officials urge removal of Callery pear, bush honeysuckle

Spring is near and now is the time to learn about new annual flower varieties that can bring beauty to your home landscape and containers in 2024.&nbsp;&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension and the Salina Horticulture Club will be hosting Mike DeRee of Ball Seed Company here in Salina&nbsp;on March 11 at 6:30 p.m.&nbsp; Mike’s presentation will cover new and recently released high performing annual flower varieties for Kansas.&nbsp;&nbsp; This is a free presentation that will be held at K-State Salina in the College Center Building Conference Room.&nbsp; If you would like to attend, please RSVP for a chair at the presentation at the Central Kansas District Extension website.&nbsp; Visit the website here:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/</a>&nbsp;

K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/3/1709571983060.jpeg" alt="image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>SubmittedSpring is near and now is the time to learn about new annual flower varieties that can bring beauty to your home landscape and containers in 2024.&nbsp;&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension and the Salina Horticulture Club will be hosting Mike DeRee of Ball Seed Company here in Salina&nbsp;on March 11 at 6:30 p.m.&nbsp; Mike’s presentation will cover new and recently released high performing annual flower varieties for Kansas.&nbsp;&nbsp; This is a free presentation that will be held at K-State Salina in the College Center Building Conference Room.&nbsp; If you would like to attend, please RSVP for a chair at the presentation at the Central Kansas District Extension website.&nbsp; Visit the website here:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/</a>&nbsp; K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

New annual flowers for Kansas presentation March 11

It’s still nearly three months before Kansas gardeners begin to put tomato plants into the ground. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says that’s an opportunity for gardeners to set themselves up for a bountiful season.

“Most of the varieties available to home gardeners are indeterminate,” Domenghini said.

Indeterminate plants are traditional tomatoes that never stop growing. They are capable of producing fruit throughout the season unless disease stops production or frost kills the plant.

Domenghini said gardeners will benefit from choosing tomato varieties with strong disease resistance characteristics.

“Gardeners with limited space will likely prefer indeterminate or determinate types to stretch out the harvest season,” Domenghini said. “If there is space, you may want to grow a combination of all three, with the determinates used to produce a large harvest for canning or tomato juice, and the remainder for fresh eating.”

In Kansas, tomatoes are generally planted in early- to mid-May, or when daytime temperatures are above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and the state has passed the frost-free date. In some areas, such as the northwest part of the state, conditions might not be right for planting tomatoes until the middle of May or a bit later, according to Domenghini.

Even though indeterminate varieties produce fruit throughout the season, “our hot Kansas summers often cause a dry spell in production,” Domenghini said.

Tomatoes are less likely to set fruit when night temperatures remain above 75 F and day temperatures are above 95 F. Hot, dry winds make the situation worse, Domenghini said.

Each year, <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/consumer-horticulture/master-gardener//">Kansas Master Gardeners</a> plant and rate a number of tomato varieties. Domenghini noted that a subsequent trial is conducted by a colleague with the University of Missouri extension service.

Results of trials conducted by Kansas’ Master Gardeners vary by county. Interested persons are encouraged to <a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations/">contact their local extension office</a> for more information on varieties that perform well in their area.

Domenghini said the University of Missouri trials also give valuable information on varieties that perform well in this region. The data from Missouri’s extension service showed that the top 10 varieties (based on pounds of fruit harvested per plant) are:

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/2/1707851964934.png" alt="K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said February is a good time to begin thinking about tomato varieties that fit your garden. Image Courtesy K-State Research and Extension" />
 <figcaption>K-State horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said February is a good time to begin thinking about tomato varieties that fit your garden. Image Courtesy K-State Research and Extension</figcaption>
 </figure>By MADDY ROHR K-State Research and Extension news serviceIt’s still nearly three months before Kansas gardeners begin to put tomato plants into the ground. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says that’s an opportunity for gardeners to set themselves up for a bountiful season.“Most of the varieties available to home gardeners are indeterminate,” Domenghini said.Indeterminate plants are traditional tomatoes that never stop growing. They are capable of producing fruit throughout the season unless disease stops production or frost kills the plant.Domenghini said gardeners will benefit from choosing tomato varieties with strong disease resistance characteristics.“Gardeners with limited space will likely prefer indeterminate or determinate types to stretch out the harvest season,” Domenghini said. “If there is space, you may want to grow a combination of all three, with the determinates used to produce a large harvest for canning or tomato juice, and the remainder for fresh eating.”In Kansas, tomatoes are generally planted in early- to mid-May, or when daytime temperatures are above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and the state has passed the frost-free date. In some areas, such as the northwest part of the state, conditions might not be right for planting tomatoes until the middle of May or a bit later, according to Domenghini.Even though indeterminate varieties produce fruit throughout the season, “our hot Kansas summers often cause a dry spell in production,” Domenghini said.Tomatoes are less likely to set fruit when night temperatures remain above 75 F and day temperatures are above 95 F. Hot, dry winds make the situation worse, Domenghini said.Tomato trialsEach year, <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/consumer-horticulture/master-gardener//">Kansas Master Gardeners</a> plant and rate a number of tomato varieties. Domenghini noted that a subsequent trial is conducted by a colleague with the University of Missouri extension service.Results of trials conducted by Kansas’ Master Gardeners vary by county. Interested persons are encouraged to <a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations/">contact their local extension office</a> for more information on varieties that perform well in their area.Domenghini said the University of Missouri trials also give valuable information on varieties that perform well in this region. The data from Missouri’s extension service showed that the top 10 varieties (based on pounds of fruit harvested per plant) are:Amish PasteBeefmasterBeefsteakBig BeefCelebrityChef’s ChoiceEarly GirlFlorida 91Jet StarSummer PickDomenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens.

KSRE: It's Feb., are you thinking about tomatoes yet?

By PAT MELGARES K-State Research and Extension news service

Nobel Peace Prize winner Charles Rice will highlight Kansas State University’s popular&nbsp;<a href="https://ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">Garden Hour</a>&nbsp;series on Feb. 7 when he gives a talk on factors related to gardening in a changing climate.

The K-State Garden Hour is a free, online series held on the first Wednesday of each month from noon to 1 p.m. In 2023, organizers report that 13,794 participants were drawn to at least one presentation in the series.

Rice is a Kansas State University Distinguished Professor of Soil Microbiology who was a co-winner of the 2007 Nobel Peace Prize for his work with the United Nations’ Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change.

His Feb. 7 talk will cover the difficulty of gardening in the extreme weather of Kansas, as well as information on how to adjust gardening practices in response to climate changes. Rice gave a similar talk during the International Master Gardener Conference in Overland Park, Kansas last summer.

The 2024 K-State Garden Hour series kicked off on Jan. 3 with a presentation on using nature’s décor in floral design. Matthew McKernan, one of the series’ organizers, said that session is&nbsp;<a href="https://ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">available to view online</a>.

Full descriptions of each topic are&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/consumer-horticulture/garden-hour">available online</a>. McKernan said all sessions are recorded and available shortly after to view online, as well.

“We want to invite all gardeners to participate in the 2024 series,” McKernan said. “Whether you join the presentations live or view the recordings, we hope each month brings inspiration to every level of gardener.”

Since the K-State Garden Hour began in 2020 – during the height of the COVID pandemic – McKernan said 62,887 participants have viewed the monthly discussions. He notes that 97% of the participants said the webinars have contributed to improvements in their physical and emotional health, including 98% who said they are more physically active, and 99% saying they have experienced more personal optimism through gardening.

Also, 70% of participants in the K-State Garden Hour reported making at least five efforts to improve water quality in their community, and 69% reported implementing at least five water conservation practices as a result of the webinar series.

The series has always been available for free, but McKernan said some assistance may be needed to keep it that way. Those who wish to make tax-deductible contributions to the K-State Garden Hour – McKernan said contributions pay for an annual Zoom webinar license – can do so&nbsp;<a href="https://www.givecampus.com/campaigns/33618/donations/new">through the KSU Foundation</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/2/1706981076852.jpeg" alt="Graphic courtesy K-State Research and Extension" />
 <figcaption>Graphic courtesy K-State Research and Extension</figcaption>
 </figure>By PAT MELGARES K-State Research and Extension news serviceNobel Peace Prize winner Charles Rice will highlight Kansas State University’s popular&nbsp;<a href="https://ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">Garden Hour</a>&nbsp;series on Feb. 7 when he gives a talk on factors related to gardening in a changing climate.The K-State Garden Hour is a free, online series held on the first Wednesday of each month from noon to 1 p.m. In 2023, organizers report that 13,794 participants were drawn to at least one presentation in the series.Rice is a Kansas State University Distinguished Professor of Soil Microbiology who was a co-winner of the 2007 Nobel Peace Prize for his work with the United Nations’ Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change.His Feb. 7 talk will cover the difficulty of gardening in the extreme weather of Kansas, as well as information on how to adjust gardening practices in response to climate changes. Rice gave a similar talk during the International Master Gardener Conference in Overland Park, Kansas last summer.The 2024 K-State Garden Hour series kicked off on Jan. 3 with a presentation on using nature’s décor in floral design. Matthew McKernan, one of the series’ organizers, said that session is&nbsp;<a href="https://ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">available to view online</a>.Upcoming Wednesday sessions include:<ul>
 <li>March 6 – Selecting and planting fruit trees for Kansas.</li><li>April 3 – Companion plants for your garden.</li><li>May 1 – Understanding water sources for your garden.</li><li>June 5 – Growing cut flowers for the home and farmers market.</li><li>July 3 – Success with cacti and succulents.</li><li>Aug. 7 – Establishing a more environmentally sustainable lawn.</li><li>Sept. 4 – Season extension in the vegetable garden.</li><li>Oct. 2 – Evergreens in Kansas.</li><li>Nov. 6 – Rabbit, mole and deer mitigation.</li><li>Dec. 4 – Home hydroponics.</li>
 </ul>Full descriptions of each topic are&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/consumer-horticulture/garden-hour">available online</a>. McKernan said all sessions are recorded and available shortly after to view online, as well.“We want to invite all gardeners to participate in the 2024 series,” McKernan said. “Whether you join the presentations live or view the recordings, we hope each month brings inspiration to every level of gardener.”Since the K-State Garden Hour began in 2020 – during the height of the COVID pandemic – McKernan said 62,887 participants have viewed the monthly discussions. He notes that 97% of the participants said the webinars have contributed to improvements in their physical and emotional health, including 98% who said they are more physically active, and 99% saying they have experienced more personal optimism through gardening.Also, 70% of participants in the K-State Garden Hour reported making at least five efforts to improve water quality in their community, and 69% reported implementing at least five water conservation practices as a result of the webinar series.The series has always been available for free, but McKernan said some assistance may be needed to keep it that way. Those who wish to make tax-deductible contributions to the K-State Garden Hour – McKernan said contributions pay for an annual Zoom webinar license – can do so&nbsp;<a href="https://www.givecampus.com/campaigns/33618/donations/new">through the KSU Foundation</a>.

Nobel Peace Prize winner highlights Feb. 7 K-State Garden Hour

KSRE In case cabin fever has Kansas gardeners longing for warmer days, there’s good news: January marks an early opportunity to get some vegetables and flowers started.

“January is often a cold and dreary month for many gardeners,” said Cynthia Domenghini, a horticulture expert with K-State Research and Extension. “But planning for and starting vegetables and flower transplants from seed can make this a much more interesting time of year.”

Domenghini outlined the steps needed to purchase and plant seeds indoors in a recent issue of the Horticulture Newsletter, a weekly publication from Kansas State University&nbsp;<a href="https://preview.web.k-state.edu/hnr-notused/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">that is available online</a>&nbsp;and by email.

Purchase recommended, quality seed.&nbsp;The varieties recommended for Kansas are available in a&nbsp;publication from K-State Research and Extension. “Also, talk to your neighbors, friends and your local garden center about what has worked well for them,” Domenghini said.

Obtain your seeds from a reputable source.&nbsp;These may include garden centers and seed catalogs. “If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year,” Domenghini said. “Though most seed remains viable for about three years, germination decreases as seed ages.”

Determine the Date to Seed.&nbsp;You should know the target date for transplanting outside, and the number of weeks needed to grow the transplant indoors.&nbsp;. Sowing seed.&nbsp;Do not use garden soil to germinate seed. It is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. Use a media made especially for seed germination.

Domenghini said additional tips include keeping seed moist, and growing the seeds in appropriate lighting and temperature conditions. A little TLC also helps, she said.

“Plants react to movement,” Domenghini said. “Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become more stocky and less leggy. Try 20 brushing strokes per day. However, brushing will not compensate for a lack of light or over-crowding.”

Move plants outdoors prior to transplanting so that they will become hardened to the sun and wind. “Start about two weeks before transplanting and gradually expose the plants to outside conditions,” Domenghini said. “Increase the number of hours and degree of exposure over a two-week period.”

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/1/1705850210983.jpeg" alt="KSRE Planting in January. KSRE Image" />
 <figcaption>KSRE Planting in January. KSRE Image</figcaption>
 </figure>KSRE In case cabin fever has Kansas gardeners longing for warmer days, there’s good news: January marks an early opportunity to get some vegetables and flowers started.“January is often a cold and dreary month for many gardeners,” said Cynthia Domenghini, a horticulture expert with K-State Research and Extension. “But planning for and starting vegetables and flower transplants from seed can make this a much more interesting time of year.”Domenghini outlined the steps needed to purchase and plant seeds indoors in a recent issue of the Horticulture Newsletter, a weekly publication from Kansas State University&nbsp;<a href="https://preview.web.k-state.edu/hnr-notused/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">that is available online</a>&nbsp;and by email.Her recommendations include:Purchase recommended, quality seed.&nbsp;The varieties recommended for Kansas are available in a&nbsp;publication from K-State Research and Extension. “Also, talk to your neighbors, friends and your local garden center about what has worked well for them,” Domenghini said.Obtain your seeds from a reputable source.&nbsp;These may include garden centers and seed catalogs. “If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year,” Domenghini said. “Though most seed remains viable for about three years, germination decreases as seed ages.”Determine the Date to Seed.&nbsp;You should know the target date for transplanting outside, and the number of weeks needed to grow the transplant indoors.&nbsp;. Sowing seed.&nbsp;Do not use garden soil to germinate seed. It is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. Use a media made especially for seed germination.Domenghini said additional tips include keeping seed moist, and growing the seeds in appropriate lighting and temperature conditions. A little TLC also helps, she said.“Plants react to movement,” Domenghini said. “Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become more stocky and less leggy. Try 20 brushing strokes per day. However, brushing will not compensate for a lack of light or over-crowding.”Move plants outdoors prior to transplanting so that they will become hardened to the sun and wind. “Start about two weeks before transplanting and gradually expose the plants to outside conditions,” Domenghini said. “Increase the number of hours and degree of exposure over a two-week period.”Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

KSRE: Jan. provides opportunity to start vegetables, flowers indoors

K-State expert says map is ‘critical’ for plant recommendations

By PAT MELGARES K-State Research and Extension news service

For the first time in 11 years, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has updated its Plant Hardiness Zone Map, which is historically the standard that gardeners and growers use to determine the perennial plants most likely to thrive at a location.

The update, said Kansas State University nursery crop production and marketing specialist Cheryl Boyer, is a big deal.

“It’s been a while since the maps have been updated because it’s a significant, coordinated effort,” said Boyer, noting that the maps are built based on data from 13,625 weather stations spanning 30 years.

“We use the plant hardiness zones for nearly all aspects of agriculture, horticulture and natural resources research and extension recommendations,” she said. “They influence our plant recommendations and production guidelines, both for crops and ornamental species.”

Boyer added that USDA’s Risk Management Agency uses the Plant Hardiness Zone Map to set some crop insurance standards for farmers. Other scientists use the data in models that might indicate the spread of weeds, insects or diseases.

“The USDA plant hardiness zone map is a critical tool for plant recommendations,” Boyer said. “In Kansas, most of the state shifted about a half zone warmer. We still have pockets of Zone 5 in the north, but the range of Zone 7 in the southern part of Kansas is significantly larger.

“We should continue to focus on recommending plants that can handle Zone 5 plant hardiness because we will continue to experience extreme weather events, but we can also begin to expand our plant palette with species that originate in slightly warmer climates. This will also be reflected in a longer season for some food crops.”

Boyer served on a USDA technical review team that helped to develop the new map. The group included 40 plant professionals from industry, academic and government as well as “a few consumer horticultural enthusiasts – gardeners – from across the United States.”

The experts in the group included horticulturalists, botanists, agricultural meteorologists and climatologists.

“Our role was to serve as a sounding board and provide feedback for the development of the new map, tools, and to look closely at the weather data for our areas to confirm that it matched our lived experiences of the local weather environment,” Boyer said. “We discussed methodology, how the new maps will change plant hardiness zones and subsequent plant recommendations.”

The new map is available to view online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. Boyer said it’s designed to be searchable to locations as precise as one-half mile.

“This is helpful because, for example, urban areas tend to be heat islands and mountain tops tend to be colder than surrounding areas, so the new maps help identify those microclimates.”

Another online section, Tips for Growers, highlights resources to enhance the understanding and use of the new maps.

“Much of the information available is high-level guidance on how plants respond to the environment and what they need to survive and thrive, like light, soil, temperature, humidity and duration of exposure to cold,” Boyer said.

“Other resources provide different ways of learning, such as reading, watching a video, listening to a recording, and more. USDA provides educational information that can be applied broadly to the entire nation, while each state and county can provide more targeted advice based on local environments.”

More information on crop production and gardening also is available at local extension offices in Kansas, or online from K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/11/1700661961889.png" alt="2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Image Courtesy USDA" />
 <figcaption>2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Image Courtesy USDA</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State expert says map is ‘critical’ for plant recommendations</h2>By PAT MELGARES K-State Research and Extension news serviceFor the first time in 11 years, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has updated its Plant Hardiness Zone Map, which is historically the standard that gardeners and growers use to determine the perennial plants most likely to thrive at a location.The update, said Kansas State University nursery crop production and marketing specialist Cheryl Boyer, is a big deal.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/11/1700662116605.jpeg" alt="2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map" />
 <figcaption>2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map</figcaption>
 </figure>“It’s been a while since the maps have been updated because it’s a significant, coordinated effort,” said Boyer, noting that the maps are built based on data from 13,625 weather stations spanning 30 years.“We use the plant hardiness zones for nearly all aspects of agriculture, horticulture and natural resources research and extension recommendations,” she said. “They influence our plant recommendations and production guidelines, both for crops and ornamental species.”Boyer added that USDA’s Risk Management Agency uses the Plant Hardiness Zone Map to set some crop insurance standards for farmers. Other scientists use the data in models that might indicate the spread of weeds, insects or diseases.“The USDA plant hardiness zone map is a critical tool for plant recommendations,” Boyer said. “In Kansas, most of the state shifted about a half zone warmer. We still have pockets of Zone 5 in the north, but the range of Zone 7 in the southern part of Kansas is significantly larger.“We should continue to focus on recommending plants that can handle Zone 5 plant hardiness because we will continue to experience extreme weather events, but we can also begin to expand our plant palette with species that originate in slightly warmer climates. This will also be reflected in a longer season for some food crops.”Boyer served on a USDA technical review team that helped to develop the new map. The group included 40 plant professionals from industry, academic and government as well as “a few consumer horticultural enthusiasts – gardeners – from across the United States.”The experts in the group included horticulturalists, botanists, agricultural meteorologists and climatologists.“Our role was to serve as a sounding board and provide feedback for the development of the new map, tools, and to look closely at the weather data for our areas to confirm that it matched our lived experiences of the local weather environment,” Boyer said. “We discussed methodology, how the new maps will change plant hardiness zones and subsequent plant recommendations.”The new map is available to view online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. Boyer said it’s designed to be searchable to locations as precise as one-half mile.“This is helpful because, for example, urban areas tend to be heat islands and mountain tops tend to be colder than surrounding areas, so the new maps help identify those microclimates.”Another online section, Tips for Growers, highlights resources to enhance the understanding and use of the new maps.“Much of the information available is high-level guidance on how plants respond to the environment and what they need to survive and thrive, like light, soil, temperature, humidity and duration of exposure to cold,” Boyer said.“Other resources provide different ways of learning, such as reading, watching a video, listening to a recording, and more. USDA provides educational information that can be applied broadly to the entire nation, while each state and county can provide more targeted advice based on local environments.”More information on crop production and gardening also is available at local extension offices in Kansas, or online from K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources.

USDA releases updated Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Cold temperatures came on quickly in Kansas, and leaves have begun to drop.

While keeping up with leaves every fall is a challenge, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the amount of leaf cover on the ground has an impact on the underlying plants.

“Photosynthesis will be restricted in a lawn covered with a dense layer of leaves, preventing it from storing enough energy to survive winter,” Domenghini said.

Leaves can be added to a compost heap, but Domenghini recommends shredding them first. This can be done by mowing over them on the lawn and collecting them in the mower bag or they can be added directly into the planters.

“Incorporate 2-3 inches of shredded leaves to the soil at a time,” Domenghini said. “This can be repeated until the leaves are gone or the soil is frozen and cannot be worked. Shredded leaves can be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and perennials as well.”

Leaf mulch incorporated into lawns can help prevent weeds from germinating between grass plants. Leaf mulch has not been shown to negatively effect turf quality, color or soil pH, she said.

Shredded leaves can be left on the lawn if they are not too dense, Domenghini adds. As the lawn is mowed, the leaf pieces will fall in between the blades of grass and eventually break down into the soil.

“It may require multiple passes with the lawn mower to get the leaf size small enough. It is also necessary to mow frequently to keep up with the leaf drop,” Domenghini said.

If incorporating leaves into a cool-season lawn, Domenghini said it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall as well. You can mow leaves into a warm-season lawn but wait until late May or early June to fertilize and core-aerate, she said.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/11/1699024029247.png" alt="It’s Fall, and leaves are everywhere KSRE Photo" />
 <figcaption>It’s Fall, and leaves are everywhere KSRE Photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By MADDY ROHR KSRECold temperatures came on quickly in Kansas, and leaves have begun to drop.While keeping up with leaves every fall is a challenge, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the amount of leaf cover on the ground has an impact on the underlying plants.“Photosynthesis will be restricted in a lawn covered with a dense layer of leaves, preventing it from storing enough energy to survive winter,” Domenghini said.Leaves can be added to a compost heap, but Domenghini recommends shredding them first. This can be done by mowing over them on the lawn and collecting them in the mower bag or they can be added directly into the planters.“Incorporate 2-3 inches of shredded leaves to the soil at a time,” Domenghini said. “This can be repeated until the leaves are gone or the soil is frozen and cannot be worked. Shredded leaves can be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and perennials as well.”Leaf mulch incorporated into lawns can help prevent weeds from germinating between grass plants. Leaf mulch has not been shown to negatively effect turf quality, color or soil pH, she said.Shredded leaves can be left on the lawn if they are not too dense, Domenghini adds. As the lawn is mowed, the leaf pieces will fall in between the blades of grass and eventually break down into the soil.“It may require multiple passes with the lawn mower to get the leaf size small enough. It is also necessary to mow frequently to keep up with the leaf drop,” Domenghini said.If incorporating leaves into a cool-season lawn, Domenghini said it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall as well. You can mow leaves into a warm-season lawn but wait until late May or early June to fertilize and core-aerate, she said.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

K-State horticulturist offers suggestions for where to put leaves

One remaining chore for fall gardens includes prepping the garden for spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said now is a great time to prepare the soil.&nbsp;

“With drier fall weather, the soil is less likely to clump when it is tilled,” Domenghini said. “Any clumps that do form will break down over the winter as the soil freezes and thaws, leaving behind soil that’s ready to plant in the spring.”&nbsp;

Domenghini said working the soil in the fall also breaks down debris, contributing organic matter back into the garden.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Debris provides a habitat for diseases and insects. Tilling it into the soil disrupts the habitat and prevents pests from overwintering and wreaking havoc on next year’s crops,” she said.&nbsp;

When adding organic matter into the soil, Domenghini suggests following the general rule of incorporating two inches of organic matter to the surface and tilling it in. Leaves and garden waste can be mowed first to cut it into smaller pieces that will break down more quickly.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Well-tilled soil should have pellet-sized particles. Use caution not to over till the soil and turn it into dust,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to&nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1696779655805.png" alt="Soil KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Soil KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>By MADDY ROHRKSREOne remaining chore for fall gardens includes prepping the garden for spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said now is a great time to prepare the soil.&nbsp;“With drier fall weather, the soil is less likely to clump when it is tilled,” Domenghini said. “Any clumps that do form will break down over the winter as the soil freezes and thaws, leaving behind soil that’s ready to plant in the spring.”&nbsp;Domenghini said working the soil in the fall also breaks down debris, contributing organic matter back into the garden.&nbsp;&nbsp;“Debris provides a habitat for diseases and insects. Tilling it into the soil disrupts the habitat and prevents pests from overwintering and wreaking havoc on next year’s crops,” she said.&nbsp;When adding organic matter into the soil, Domenghini suggests following the general rule of incorporating two inches of organic matter to the surface and tilling it in. Leaves and garden waste can be mowed first to cut it into smaller pieces that will break down more quickly.&nbsp;&nbsp;“Well-tilled soil should have pellet-sized particles. Use caution not to over till the soil and turn it into dust,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to&nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

K-State horticulture expert says tilling the garden in the fall can protect the soil structure

By NATE KING Salina Post

Have you ever wondered why your garden isn't producing the way you thought it would? How about questions about landscaping or yard maintenance? Have pests you don't know how to get rid of?

K-State Research and Extension has the answers.&nbsp;

On this episode of King in the Community, I sit down for a conversation with Jason Graves, Horticulture Agent for <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">K-State Research and Extension- Central District.</a>&nbsp;

Graves shares with us tips on how to build a compost pile, K-State Research and Extension resources for perfecting your lawn, the importance of PH soil levels when growing trees, the unique Kansas Climate, and what is included in the word "horticulture."

For more information regarding lawns and gardens from K-State Research Extension<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/"> click here.&nbsp;</a>

<div><iframe title="Jason Graves, Horticulture Agent, K-State Research Extension" allowtransparency="true" height="150" width="100%" style="border: none; min-width: min(100%, 430px);height:150px;" scrolling="no" data-name="pb-iframe-player" src="https://www.podbean.com/player-v2/?i=sfqiv-148a5c8-pb&from=pb6admin&share=1&download=1&rtl=0&fonts=Arial&skin=60a0c8&font-color=&logo_link=episode_page&btn-skin=60a0c8" loading="lazy"></iframe></div>By NATE KING Salina PostHave you ever wondered why your garden isn't producing the way you thought it would? How about questions about landscaping or yard maintenance? Have pests you don't know how to get rid of?K-State Research and Extension has the answers.&nbsp;On this episode of King in the Community, I sit down for a conversation with Jason Graves, Horticulture Agent for <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">K-State Research and Extension- Central District.</a>&nbsp;Graves shares with us tips on how to build a compost pile, K-State Research and Extension resources for perfecting your lawn, the importance of PH soil levels when growing trees, the unique Kansas Climate, and what is included in the word "horticulture."For more information regarding lawns and gardens from K-State Research Extension<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/"> click here.&nbsp;</a>

🎙PODCAST: KSRE Horticulturist Jason Graves, preparing your lawn for fall

K-State Research and Extension News Service

MANHATTAN – Composting is a simple way to keep the home garden healthy while also helping the environment, but there is a certain art to doing it right, said Dennis Patton, a horticulture agent in K-State Research and Extension’s Johnson County office.

“The science is making sure the composting process works,” he said, “and the art part of it is figuring out what works for you.”

Patton said compost can be any dead plant or animal matter, but don’t be fooled by the definition.

“We put dead stuff in the compost, but the compost is very much alive,” he said.

Within the compost pile, there are live microorganisms that feed off dead matter. Managing the microorganisms is the key to composting, Patton said.

Patton said compost consists of a mixture of green and brown matter, both of which are key to making the microorganisms “happy.”

Brown matter is the source of carbon, and the bulk of what gardeners use in the compost pile; it includes dead leaves and other garden waste. Green matter is the source of nitrogen and somewhat harder to find; it can be grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps and animal manure.

Patton recommends about 2/3 brown matter to 1/3 green matter.

Some materials should not be used in compost, he said. Pet feces -- especially cat and dog feces -- should not be used. Nor should food waste that contains fats or oils.

Also, grass, hay or manure from a pasture that uses herbicides should not be added to the pile. Patton said these materials can all taint the compost and damage plants.

Once safe materials are available for compost, Patton said there is not really a bad location for the pile, but he suggests avoiding a low area that will collect water -- which can cause a bad smell.

To maintain the compost pile, Patton suggests watching for the development of heat within a week to 10 days of its initial construction. “If the compost pile is properly constructed, that internal part of the pile should be reaching up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit or more.”

Once the pile begins to cool down, it is time to turn the materials, a process that distributes moisture. Eventually, the pile will heat up again, then turned when it cools.

Patton said it may take between 3-6 months to form compost, but he adds, “the more you leave it in the back corner and leave it up to Mother Nature, it may take a year or more until you have compost.”

K-State Research and Extension offers several&nbsp;<a href="https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/healthy-yards-and-environment/composting.html">online resources</a>&nbsp;on composting. Additional information or questions can be directed to your local&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1684673769191.jpeg" alt="Compost. Photo courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Compost. Photo courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension News ServiceMANHATTAN – Composting is a simple way to keep the home garden healthy while also helping the environment, but there is a certain art to doing it right, said Dennis Patton, a horticulture agent in K-State Research and Extension’s Johnson County office.“The science is making sure the composting process works,” he said, “and the art part of it is figuring out what works for you.”Patton said compost can be any dead plant or animal matter, but don’t be fooled by the definition.“We put dead stuff in the compost, but the compost is very much alive,” he said.Within the compost pile, there are live microorganisms that feed off dead matter. Managing the microorganisms is the key to composting, Patton said.Patton said compost consists of a mixture of green and brown matter, both of which are key to making the microorganisms “happy.”Brown matter is the source of carbon, and the bulk of what gardeners use in the compost pile; it includes dead leaves and other garden waste. Green matter is the source of nitrogen and somewhat harder to find; it can be grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps and animal manure.Patton recommends about 2/3 brown matter to 1/3 green matter.Some materials should not be used in compost, he said. Pet feces -- especially cat and dog feces -- should not be used. Nor should food waste that contains fats or oils.Also, grass, hay or manure from a pasture that uses herbicides should not be added to the pile. Patton said these materials can all taint the compost and damage plants.Once safe materials are available for compost, Patton said there is not really a bad location for the pile, but he suggests avoiding a low area that will collect water -- which can cause a bad smell.To maintain the compost pile, Patton suggests watching for the development of heat within a week to 10 days of its initial construction. “If the compost pile is properly constructed, that internal part of the pile should be reaching up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit or more.”Once the pile begins to cool down, it is time to turn the materials, a process that distributes moisture. Eventually, the pile will heat up again, then turned when it cools.Patton said it may take between 3-6 months to form compost, but he adds, “the more you leave it in the back corner and leave it up to Mother Nature, it may take a year or more until you have compost.”K-State Research and Extension offers several&nbsp;<a href="https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/healthy-yards-and-environment/composting.html">online resources</a>&nbsp;on composting. Additional information or questions can be directed to your local&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

Composting improves the environment and home garden

By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Specialist K-State Research and Extension If you enjoy gardening, learning, and giving back as a volunteer, consider becoming an Extension Master Gardener in 2023.&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension will be offering the 2023 Master Gardener Basic Training Course&nbsp;starting September 14th.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Classes begin&nbsp;September 14th&nbsp;and will run each&nbsp;Thursday through November 30th.&nbsp; This training will be held in a hybrid format online through zoom and will also include 5 in-person training days.&nbsp; Topics covered include: plant growth and development, soil fertility, insects, diseases, landscape maintenance, vegetables, growing fruit, turf management, native plants and biodiversity, annual and perennial flowers, and more.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Master Gardeners are K-State Research &amp; Extension volunteers who enjoy cultivating their own plants and gardens while sharing their skills and knowledge with the community around them to help others grow.&nbsp; Volunteering as an Extension Master Gardener is a wonderful way to enrich your life and the lives of others.

The decision to become a Master Gardener can be very rewarding.&nbsp; It is a decision to take your horticulture knowledge to the next level, and it is also a commitment to find creative ways to make a difference in our community while sharing that knowledge with the people and places around you.

Training is just one great benefit.&nbsp; Master Gardeners receive a 40-hour-plus horticulture training course from K-State Extension specialists and county Extension agents.&nbsp; The basic training provides a great starting point for those new to gardening, but is also in depth enough to apply to gardeners of any skill level.&nbsp; Other benefits of being a Master Gardener include the camaraderie of people who share similar passions, receiving ongoing horticulture training and support through K-State Research and Extension, and other local horticulture opportunities.

Once training is complete, Master Gardeners are encouraged to take their knowledge out to the community to share it with others in unique and meaningful ways.&nbsp; First year Master Gardeners volunteer 40 hours of time and during succeeding years have a commitment of just 20 hours to remain active.

Master Gardener volunteer time can be selected from current Master Gardener projects and can also be tailored to individual abilities and interests.&nbsp; Master Gardeners are encouraged to find their creativity in looking for ways to impact the community.&nbsp; A few activities many Master Gardeners enjoy volunteering on include: &nbsp;the demonstration garden, community gardens, county fairs, and educational garden tours and events.

Space for the course is limited and applications to join the course can be filled out online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and are&nbsp;due by August 31st, 2023.&nbsp; We look forward to hearing from you!&nbsp; K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1690370234643.jpeg" alt="KSRE Photo" />
 <figcaption>KSRE Photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Specialist K-State Research and Extension If you enjoy gardening, learning, and giving back as a volunteer, consider becoming an Extension Master Gardener in 2023.&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension will be offering the 2023 Master Gardener Basic Training Course&nbsp;starting September 14th.&nbsp;&nbsp;Classes begin&nbsp;September 14th&nbsp;and will run each&nbsp;Thursday through November 30th.&nbsp; This training will be held in a hybrid format online through zoom and will also include 5 in-person training days.&nbsp; Topics covered include: plant growth and development, soil fertility, insects, diseases, landscape maintenance, vegetables, growing fruit, turf management, native plants and biodiversity, annual and perennial flowers, and more.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Who are Master Gardeners?Master Gardeners are K-State Research &amp; Extension volunteers who enjoy cultivating their own plants and gardens while sharing their skills and knowledge with the community around them to help others grow.&nbsp; Volunteering as an Extension Master Gardener is a wonderful way to enrich your life and the lives of others.Why become a Master Gardener?The decision to become a Master Gardener can be very rewarding.&nbsp; It is a decision to take your horticulture knowledge to the next level, and it is also a commitment to find creative ways to make a difference in our community while sharing that knowledge with the people and places around you.Training is just one great benefit.&nbsp; Master Gardeners receive a 40-hour-plus horticulture training course from K-State Extension specialists and county Extension agents.&nbsp; The basic training provides a great starting point for those new to gardening, but is also in depth enough to apply to gardeners of any skill level.&nbsp; Other benefits of being a Master Gardener include the camaraderie of people who share similar passions, receiving ongoing horticulture training and support through K-State Research and Extension, and other local horticulture opportunities.What about volunteering?Once training is complete, Master Gardeners are encouraged to take their knowledge out to the community to share it with others in unique and meaningful ways.&nbsp; First year Master Gardeners volunteer 40 hours of time and during succeeding years have a commitment of just 20 hours to remain active.Master Gardener volunteer time can be selected from current Master Gardener projects and can also be tailored to individual abilities and interests.&nbsp; Master Gardeners are encouraged to find their creativity in looking for ways to impact the community.&nbsp; A few activities many Master Gardeners enjoy volunteering on include: &nbsp;the demonstration garden, community gardens, county fairs, and educational garden tours and events.Apply onlineSpace for the course is limited and applications to join the course can be filled out online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and are&nbsp;due by August 31st, 2023.&nbsp; We look forward to hearing from you!&nbsp; K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Master Gardener training begins Sept. 14

By JASON GRAVES KSRE Central District Horticulture agent

Daylilies are one of the plants you see growing next to an old homestead that time and weather have reduced to rubble.&nbsp; This is a testimony to their toughness.&nbsp; The old orange-blooming daylilies may be the toughest, but other varieties with more unusual colors are also tough and have proven themselves in Central Kansas landscapes.&nbsp;

The first hybrid daylily was introduced in 1890.&nbsp; Since then, thousands of varieties have been introduced.&nbsp; Although the daylily is in the lily family, it should not be confused with the garden lilies that grow from bulbs.&nbsp;

Daylilies have long, grass-like leaves, stiff, upright flowering branches, and fleshy roots.&nbsp; They grow in full sun to part shade, are 1 to 3.5 feet tall, and are hardy in Zones 3-10.&nbsp; They are effective garden perennials planted either in masses or combined with other plants.&nbsp;

Even neglected daylilies tend to survive.&nbsp; However,&nbsp;to maintain vigor, even the toughest daylily needs occasional care.&nbsp; With today’s varieties one important part of that care is dividing clumps every three to five years.

Unlike many perennials, daylilies can be divided just about any time during the growing season, even while they’re blooming.&nbsp; Still,&nbsp;the best time to divide clumps in Kansas tends to be late summer or early fall.&nbsp; Allow the last flowers to fade, and dig up the whole clump. Pull off any dead leaves and flower stalks, and cut the green foliage back to about four inches.

As might be expected, the daylily root system is tough, too. The individual crowns in an old clump will be meshed together by entangled tuberous roots.&nbsp; You may need to separate the clump with a sharp spade. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate.

Each new division should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. &nbsp;If you’ve divided your daylilies within the last few years, you may be able to use a spade to ‘peel off’ leaf fans and their roots. Sometimes, with a real good shaking, you can divide plants using your hands only.&nbsp;

Don’t be too concerned about root loss or breakage. You can trim broken or dead roots after prying the crowns apart.&nbsp;Young, vigorous divisions from the edges of the parent clump are more vigorous and will recover more quickly.&nbsp;Discard old growth from these neglected plants.&nbsp;

Plant in garden soil that you have amended with compost if possible.&nbsp; Spread the roots out in the planting hole, cover with soil to its original planting depth, firm the soil with your palms, and water in thoroughly.&nbsp; If you wait until late fall to divide daylilies, you’ll need to mulch the new plantings after the ground freezes.&nbsp; That will help prevent their being heaved out of the ground by the soil’s alternate freezing and thawing.

Divided daylilies won’t flower as abundantly the first year after division.&nbsp;&nbsp;But the plants will be back to normal by the second year and they’ll stay that way until they need to be divided again.&nbsp; By then, you may decide you have enough daylilies to start sharing with your neighbors and friends.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/11/1637121416809.jpeg" alt=" " />
 <figcaption> </figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES KSRE Central District Horticulture agentDaylilies are one of the plants you see growing next to an old homestead that time and weather have reduced to rubble.&nbsp; This is a testimony to their toughness.&nbsp; The old orange-blooming daylilies may be the toughest, but other varieties with more unusual colors are also tough and have proven themselves in Central Kansas landscapes.&nbsp;The first hybrid daylily was introduced in 1890.&nbsp; Since then, thousands of varieties have been introduced.&nbsp; Although the daylily is in the lily family, it should not be confused with the garden lilies that grow from bulbs.&nbsp;<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692362934137.jpeg" alt="Pink and yellow daylily variety. Images courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Pink and yellow daylily variety. Images courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>Daylilies have long, grass-like leaves, stiff, upright flowering branches, and fleshy roots.&nbsp; They grow in full sun to part shade, are 1 to 3.5 feet tall, and are hardy in Zones 3-10.&nbsp; They are effective garden perennials planted either in masses or combined with other plants.&nbsp;Even neglected daylilies tend to survive.&nbsp; However,&nbsp;to maintain vigor, even the toughest daylily needs occasional care.&nbsp; With today’s varieties one important part of that care is dividing clumps every three to five years.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692362983869.jpeg" alt="Daylilies grow in clumps that need to be divided every 3 to 5 years" />
 <figcaption>Daylilies grow in clumps that need to be divided every 3 to 5 years</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>When and how to divide</h2>Unlike many perennials, daylilies can be divided just about any time during the growing season, even while they’re blooming.&nbsp; Still,&nbsp;the best time to divide clumps in Kansas tends to be late summer or early fall.&nbsp; Allow the last flowers to fade, and dig up the whole clump. Pull off any dead leaves and flower stalks, and cut the green foliage back to about four inches.As might be expected, the daylily root system is tough, too. The individual crowns in an old clump will be meshed together by entangled tuberous roots.&nbsp; You may need to separate the clump with a sharp spade. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692363066587.jpeg" alt="Dividing Daylilies" />
 <figcaption>Dividing Daylilies</figcaption>
 </figure>Each new division should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. &nbsp;If you’ve divided your daylilies within the last few years, you may be able to use a spade to ‘peel off’ leaf fans and their roots. Sometimes, with a real good shaking, you can divide plants using your hands only.&nbsp;Don’t be too concerned about root loss or breakage. You can trim broken or dead roots after prying the crowns apart.&nbsp;Young, vigorous divisions from the edges of the parent clump are more vigorous and will recover more quickly.&nbsp;Discard old growth from these neglected plants.&nbsp;Plant in garden soil that you have amended with compost if possible.&nbsp; Spread the roots out in the planting hole, cover with soil to its original planting depth, firm the soil with your palms, and water in thoroughly.&nbsp; If you wait until late fall to divide daylilies, you’ll need to mulch the new plantings after the ground freezes.&nbsp; That will help prevent their being heaved out of the ground by the soil’s alternate freezing and thawing.Divided daylilies won’t flower as abundantly the first year after division.&nbsp;&nbsp;But the plants will be back to normal by the second year and they’ll stay that way until they need to be divided again.&nbsp; By then, you may decide you have enough daylilies to start sharing with your neighbors and friends.

KSRE: Divide daylilies now for more tough and reliable flowers

Pick during the ‘breaker’ stage and store inside, says K-State horticulture expert

Kansas gardeners may need just a little more patience and ingenuity if they’re finding that their tomatoes are slow to ripen this summer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/2/1612708754292.jpeg" alt="KSRE tomato plant feat.jpg" />
 <figcaption>KSRE tomato plant feat.jpg</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension<h2>Pick during the ‘breaker’ stage and store inside, says K-State horticulture expert</h2>Kansas gardeners may need just a little more patience and ingenuity if they’re finding that their tomatoes are slow to ripen this summer.Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said recent heat may have caused the plants to go into “survival mode,” a time when it instead concentrates on moving water.“The hot weather we have had recently not only interferes with the pollination of flowers, but it also affects how quickly fruit matures,” Upham said. “The best temperature range for tomato’s growth and development is 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.”Recently throughout the Midwest, temperatures went above 100 degrees, which causes fruit development to “slow to a crawl,” according to Upham.“Tomato color can also be affected by heat,” he said. “When temperatures rise above 95 degrees, red pigments don’t form properly, though the orange and yellow pigments do. This results in orange fruit. It doesn’t affect the edibility of the tomato, but often gardeners want that deep red color back.”To help tomatoes ripen to a bright red color, Upham said gardeners should pick them during the ‘breaker’ stage, or at that point when they are just starting to turn color.“At this point,” he said, “the tomato has cut itself off from the vine and nothing will be gained by keeping it on the plant. If tomatoes are picked at this stage and brought into an air-conditioned house, they will ripen more quickly and develop a good, red color. A temperature of 75 to 85 degrees will work well.”High heat also will cause poor fruit to set, especially on slicer tomatoes.“Cherry tomatoes seem to be more heat tolerant,” Upham said. “But for slicers, high temperatures seem to interfere with pollen viability or can cause excessive style growth, leading to a lack of pollination. Tomatoes that have already formed (before excessive heat) are not affected.”Upham said it takes about three weeks for tomato flowers to develop into fruit that is about the size of a golf ball. After that, growth is usually more rapid over the following three to six weeks, and then just a few more days to change color.“Though there are ‘heat-set’ slicing tomato varieties that will set fruit at higher temperatures, that difference is normally only two to three degrees,” Upham said. “Once cooler temperatures arrive, tomato flowers will resume setting fruit.”Originally posted July 23, 2020