KSRE In case cabin fever has Kansas gardeners longing for warmer days, there’s good news: January marks an early opportunity to get some vegetables and flowers started.

“January is often a cold and dreary month for many gardeners,” said Cynthia Domenghini, a horticulture expert with K-State Research and Extension. “But planning for and starting vegetables and flower transplants from seed can make this a much more interesting time of year.”

Domenghini outlined the steps needed to purchase and plant seeds indoors in a recent issue of the Horticulture Newsletter, a weekly publication from Kansas State University&nbsp;<a href="https://preview.web.k-state.edu/hnr-notused/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">that is available online</a>&nbsp;and by email.

Purchase recommended, quality seed.&nbsp;The varieties recommended for Kansas are available in a&nbsp;publication from K-State Research and Extension. “Also, talk to your neighbors, friends and your local garden center about what has worked well for them,” Domenghini said.

Obtain your seeds from a reputable source.&nbsp;These may include garden centers and seed catalogs. “If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year,” Domenghini said. “Though most seed remains viable for about three years, germination decreases as seed ages.”

Determine the Date to Seed.&nbsp;You should know the target date for transplanting outside, and the number of weeks needed to grow the transplant indoors.&nbsp;. Sowing seed.&nbsp;Do not use garden soil to germinate seed. It is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. Use a media made especially for seed germination.

Domenghini said additional tips include keeping seed moist, and growing the seeds in appropriate lighting and temperature conditions. A little TLC also helps, she said.

“Plants react to movement,” Domenghini said. “Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become more stocky and less leggy. Try 20 brushing strokes per day. However, brushing will not compensate for a lack of light or over-crowding.”

Move plants outdoors prior to transplanting so that they will become hardened to the sun and wind. “Start about two weeks before transplanting and gradually expose the plants to outside conditions,” Domenghini said. “Increase the number of hours and degree of exposure over a two-week period.”

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/1/1705850210983.jpeg" alt="KSRE Planting in January. KSRE Image" />
 <figcaption>KSRE Planting in January. KSRE Image</figcaption>
 </figure>KSRE In case cabin fever has Kansas gardeners longing for warmer days, there’s good news: January marks an early opportunity to get some vegetables and flowers started.“January is often a cold and dreary month for many gardeners,” said Cynthia Domenghini, a horticulture expert with K-State Research and Extension. “But planning for and starting vegetables and flower transplants from seed can make this a much more interesting time of year.”Domenghini outlined the steps needed to purchase and plant seeds indoors in a recent issue of the Horticulture Newsletter, a weekly publication from Kansas State University&nbsp;<a href="https://preview.web.k-state.edu/hnr-notused/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">that is available online</a>&nbsp;and by email.Her recommendations include:Purchase recommended, quality seed.&nbsp;The varieties recommended for Kansas are available in a&nbsp;publication from K-State Research and Extension. “Also, talk to your neighbors, friends and your local garden center about what has worked well for them,” Domenghini said.Obtain your seeds from a reputable source.&nbsp;These may include garden centers and seed catalogs. “If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year,” Domenghini said. “Though most seed remains viable for about three years, germination decreases as seed ages.”Determine the Date to Seed.&nbsp;You should know the target date for transplanting outside, and the number of weeks needed to grow the transplant indoors.&nbsp;. Sowing seed.&nbsp;Do not use garden soil to germinate seed. It is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. Use a media made especially for seed germination.Domenghini said additional tips include keeping seed moist, and growing the seeds in appropriate lighting and temperature conditions. A little TLC also helps, she said.“Plants react to movement,” Domenghini said. “Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become more stocky and less leggy. Try 20 brushing strokes per day. However, brushing will not compensate for a lack of light or over-crowding.”Move plants outdoors prior to transplanting so that they will become hardened to the sun and wind. “Start about two weeks before transplanting and gradually expose the plants to outside conditions,” Domenghini said. “Increase the number of hours and degree of exposure over a two-week period.”Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

KSRE: Jan. provides opportunity to start vegetables, flowers indoors

K-State expert says map is ‘critical’ for plant recommendations

By PAT MELGARES K-State Research and Extension news service

For the first time in 11 years, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has updated its Plant Hardiness Zone Map, which is historically the standard that gardeners and growers use to determine the perennial plants most likely to thrive at a location.

The update, said Kansas State University nursery crop production and marketing specialist Cheryl Boyer, is a big deal.

“It’s been a while since the maps have been updated because it’s a significant, coordinated effort,” said Boyer, noting that the maps are built based on data from 13,625 weather stations spanning 30 years.

“We use the plant hardiness zones for nearly all aspects of agriculture, horticulture and natural resources research and extension recommendations,” she said. “They influence our plant recommendations and production guidelines, both for crops and ornamental species.”

Boyer added that USDA’s Risk Management Agency uses the Plant Hardiness Zone Map to set some crop insurance standards for farmers. Other scientists use the data in models that might indicate the spread of weeds, insects or diseases.

“The USDA plant hardiness zone map is a critical tool for plant recommendations,” Boyer said. “In Kansas, most of the state shifted about a half zone warmer. We still have pockets of Zone 5 in the north, but the range of Zone 7 in the southern part of Kansas is significantly larger.

“We should continue to focus on recommending plants that can handle Zone 5 plant hardiness because we will continue to experience extreme weather events, but we can also begin to expand our plant palette with species that originate in slightly warmer climates. This will also be reflected in a longer season for some food crops.”

Boyer served on a USDA technical review team that helped to develop the new map. The group included 40 plant professionals from industry, academic and government as well as “a few consumer horticultural enthusiasts – gardeners – from across the United States.”

The experts in the group included horticulturalists, botanists, agricultural meteorologists and climatologists.

“Our role was to serve as a sounding board and provide feedback for the development of the new map, tools, and to look closely at the weather data for our areas to confirm that it matched our lived experiences of the local weather environment,” Boyer said. “We discussed methodology, how the new maps will change plant hardiness zones and subsequent plant recommendations.”

The new map is available to view online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. Boyer said it’s designed to be searchable to locations as precise as one-half mile.

“This is helpful because, for example, urban areas tend to be heat islands and mountain tops tend to be colder than surrounding areas, so the new maps help identify those microclimates.”

Another online section, Tips for Growers, highlights resources to enhance the understanding and use of the new maps.

“Much of the information available is high-level guidance on how plants respond to the environment and what they need to survive and thrive, like light, soil, temperature, humidity and duration of exposure to cold,” Boyer said.

“Other resources provide different ways of learning, such as reading, watching a video, listening to a recording, and more. USDA provides educational information that can be applied broadly to the entire nation, while each state and county can provide more targeted advice based on local environments.”

More information on crop production and gardening also is available at local extension offices in Kansas, or online from K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/11/1700661961889.png" alt="2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Image Courtesy USDA" />
 <figcaption>2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Image Courtesy USDA</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State expert says map is ‘critical’ for plant recommendations</h2>By PAT MELGARES K-State Research and Extension news serviceFor the first time in 11 years, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has updated its Plant Hardiness Zone Map, which is historically the standard that gardeners and growers use to determine the perennial plants most likely to thrive at a location.The update, said Kansas State University nursery crop production and marketing specialist Cheryl Boyer, is a big deal.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/11/1700662116605.jpeg" alt="2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map" />
 <figcaption>2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map</figcaption>
 </figure>“It’s been a while since the maps have been updated because it’s a significant, coordinated effort,” said Boyer, noting that the maps are built based on data from 13,625 weather stations spanning 30 years.“We use the plant hardiness zones for nearly all aspects of agriculture, horticulture and natural resources research and extension recommendations,” she said. “They influence our plant recommendations and production guidelines, both for crops and ornamental species.”Boyer added that USDA’s Risk Management Agency uses the Plant Hardiness Zone Map to set some crop insurance standards for farmers. Other scientists use the data in models that might indicate the spread of weeds, insects or diseases.“The USDA plant hardiness zone map is a critical tool for plant recommendations,” Boyer said. “In Kansas, most of the state shifted about a half zone warmer. We still have pockets of Zone 5 in the north, but the range of Zone 7 in the southern part of Kansas is significantly larger.“We should continue to focus on recommending plants that can handle Zone 5 plant hardiness because we will continue to experience extreme weather events, but we can also begin to expand our plant palette with species that originate in slightly warmer climates. This will also be reflected in a longer season for some food crops.”Boyer served on a USDA technical review team that helped to develop the new map. The group included 40 plant professionals from industry, academic and government as well as “a few consumer horticultural enthusiasts – gardeners – from across the United States.”The experts in the group included horticulturalists, botanists, agricultural meteorologists and climatologists.“Our role was to serve as a sounding board and provide feedback for the development of the new map, tools, and to look closely at the weather data for our areas to confirm that it matched our lived experiences of the local weather environment,” Boyer said. “We discussed methodology, how the new maps will change plant hardiness zones and subsequent plant recommendations.”The new map is available to view online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. Boyer said it’s designed to be searchable to locations as precise as one-half mile.“This is helpful because, for example, urban areas tend to be heat islands and mountain tops tend to be colder than surrounding areas, so the new maps help identify those microclimates.”Another online section, Tips for Growers, highlights resources to enhance the understanding and use of the new maps.“Much of the information available is high-level guidance on how plants respond to the environment and what they need to survive and thrive, like light, soil, temperature, humidity and duration of exposure to cold,” Boyer said.“Other resources provide different ways of learning, such as reading, watching a video, listening to a recording, and more. USDA provides educational information that can be applied broadly to the entire nation, while each state and county can provide more targeted advice based on local environments.”More information on crop production and gardening also is available at local extension offices in Kansas, or online from K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources.

USDA releases updated Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Cold temperatures came on quickly in Kansas, and leaves have begun to drop.

While keeping up with leaves every fall is a challenge, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the amount of leaf cover on the ground has an impact on the underlying plants.

“Photosynthesis will be restricted in a lawn covered with a dense layer of leaves, preventing it from storing enough energy to survive winter,” Domenghini said.

Leaves can be added to a compost heap, but Domenghini recommends shredding them first. This can be done by mowing over them on the lawn and collecting them in the mower bag or they can be added directly into the planters.

“Incorporate 2-3 inches of shredded leaves to the soil at a time,” Domenghini said. “This can be repeated until the leaves are gone or the soil is frozen and cannot be worked. Shredded leaves can be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and perennials as well.”

Leaf mulch incorporated into lawns can help prevent weeds from germinating between grass plants. Leaf mulch has not been shown to negatively effect turf quality, color or soil pH, she said.

Shredded leaves can be left on the lawn if they are not too dense, Domenghini adds. As the lawn is mowed, the leaf pieces will fall in between the blades of grass and eventually break down into the soil.

“It may require multiple passes with the lawn mower to get the leaf size small enough. It is also necessary to mow frequently to keep up with the leaf drop,” Domenghini said.

If incorporating leaves into a cool-season lawn, Domenghini said it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall as well. You can mow leaves into a warm-season lawn but wait until late May or early June to fertilize and core-aerate, she said.

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/11/1699024029247.png" alt="It’s Fall, and leaves are everywhere KSRE Photo" />
 <figcaption>It’s Fall, and leaves are everywhere KSRE Photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By MADDY ROHR KSRECold temperatures came on quickly in Kansas, and leaves have begun to drop.While keeping up with leaves every fall is a challenge, Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini says the amount of leaf cover on the ground has an impact on the underlying plants.“Photosynthesis will be restricted in a lawn covered with a dense layer of leaves, preventing it from storing enough energy to survive winter,” Domenghini said.Leaves can be added to a compost heap, but Domenghini recommends shredding them first. This can be done by mowing over them on the lawn and collecting them in the mower bag or they can be added directly into the planters.“Incorporate 2-3 inches of shredded leaves to the soil at a time,” Domenghini said. “This can be repeated until the leaves are gone or the soil is frozen and cannot be worked. Shredded leaves can be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and perennials as well.”Leaf mulch incorporated into lawns can help prevent weeds from germinating between grass plants. Leaf mulch has not been shown to negatively effect turf quality, color or soil pH, she said.Shredded leaves can be left on the lawn if they are not too dense, Domenghini adds. As the lawn is mowed, the leaf pieces will fall in between the blades of grass and eventually break down into the soil.“It may require multiple passes with the lawn mower to get the leaf size small enough. It is also necessary to mow frequently to keep up with the leaf drop,” Domenghini said.If incorporating leaves into a cool-season lawn, Domenghini said it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall as well. You can mow leaves into a warm-season lawn but wait until late May or early June to fertilize and core-aerate, she said.Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

K-State horticulturist offers suggestions for where to put leaves

One remaining chore for fall gardens includes prepping the garden for spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said now is a great time to prepare the soil.&nbsp;

“With drier fall weather, the soil is less likely to clump when it is tilled,” Domenghini said. “Any clumps that do form will break down over the winter as the soil freezes and thaws, leaving behind soil that’s ready to plant in the spring.”&nbsp;

Domenghini said working the soil in the fall also breaks down debris, contributing organic matter back into the garden.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Debris provides a habitat for diseases and insects. Tilling it into the soil disrupts the habitat and prevents pests from overwintering and wreaking havoc on next year’s crops,” she said.&nbsp;

When adding organic matter into the soil, Domenghini suggests following the general rule of incorporating two inches of organic matter to the surface and tilling it in. Leaves and garden waste can be mowed first to cut it into smaller pieces that will break down more quickly.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Well-tilled soil should have pellet-sized particles. Use caution not to over till the soil and turn it into dust,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;

Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to&nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1696779655805.png" alt="Soil KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Soil KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>By MADDY ROHRKSREOne remaining chore for fall gardens includes prepping the garden for spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said now is a great time to prepare the soil.&nbsp;“With drier fall weather, the soil is less likely to clump when it is tilled,” Domenghini said. “Any clumps that do form will break down over the winter as the soil freezes and thaws, leaving behind soil that’s ready to plant in the spring.”&nbsp;Domenghini said working the soil in the fall also breaks down debris, contributing organic matter back into the garden.&nbsp;&nbsp;“Debris provides a habitat for diseases and insects. Tilling it into the soil disrupts the habitat and prevents pests from overwintering and wreaking havoc on next year’s crops,” she said.&nbsp;When adding organic matter into the soil, Domenghini suggests following the general rule of incorporating two inches of organic matter to the surface and tilling it in. Leaves and garden waste can be mowed first to cut it into smaller pieces that will break down more quickly.&nbsp;&nbsp;“Well-tilled soil should have pellet-sized particles. Use caution not to over till the soil and turn it into dust,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;Domenghini and her colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">Horticulture Newsletter</a>&nbsp;with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to view online or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden and yard-related questions to&nbsp;Domenghini at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:cdom@ksu.edu,">cdom@ksu.edu,</a>&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

K-State horticulture expert says tilling the garden in the fall can protect the soil structure

By NATE KING Salina Post

Have you ever wondered why your garden isn't producing the way you thought it would? How about questions about landscaping or yard maintenance? Have pests you don't know how to get rid of?

K-State Research and Extension has the answers.&nbsp;

On this episode of King in the Community, I sit down for a conversation with Jason Graves, Horticulture Agent for <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">K-State Research and Extension- Central District.</a>&nbsp;

Graves shares with us tips on how to build a compost pile, K-State Research and Extension resources for perfecting your lawn, the importance of PH soil levels when growing trees, the unique Kansas Climate, and what is included in the word "horticulture."

For more information regarding lawns and gardens from K-State Research Extension<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/"> click here.&nbsp;</a>

<div><iframe title="Jason Graves, Horticulture Agent, K-State Research Extension" allowtransparency="true" height="150" width="100%" style="border: none; min-width: min(100%, 430px);height:150px;" scrolling="no" data-name="pb-iframe-player" src="https://www.podbean.com/player-v2/?i=sfqiv-148a5c8-pb&from=pb6admin&share=1&download=1&rtl=0&fonts=Arial&skin=60a0c8&font-color=&logo_link=episode_page&btn-skin=60a0c8" loading="lazy"></iframe></div>By NATE KING Salina PostHave you ever wondered why your garden isn't producing the way you thought it would? How about questions about landscaping or yard maintenance? Have pests you don't know how to get rid of?K-State Research and Extension has the answers.&nbsp;On this episode of King in the Community, I sit down for a conversation with Jason Graves, Horticulture Agent for <a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">K-State Research and Extension- Central District.</a>&nbsp;Graves shares with us tips on how to build a compost pile, K-State Research and Extension resources for perfecting your lawn, the importance of PH soil levels when growing trees, the unique Kansas Climate, and what is included in the word "horticulture."For more information regarding lawns and gardens from K-State Research Extension<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/"> click here.&nbsp;</a>

🎙PODCAST: KSRE Horticulturist Jason Graves, preparing your lawn for fall

K-State Research and Extension News Service

MANHATTAN – Composting is a simple way to keep the home garden healthy while also helping the environment, but there is a certain art to doing it right, said Dennis Patton, a horticulture agent in K-State Research and Extension’s Johnson County office.

“The science is making sure the composting process works,” he said, “and the art part of it is figuring out what works for you.”

Patton said compost can be any dead plant or animal matter, but don’t be fooled by the definition.

“We put dead stuff in the compost, but the compost is very much alive,” he said.

Within the compost pile, there are live microorganisms that feed off dead matter. Managing the microorganisms is the key to composting, Patton said.

Patton said compost consists of a mixture of green and brown matter, both of which are key to making the microorganisms “happy.”

Brown matter is the source of carbon, and the bulk of what gardeners use in the compost pile; it includes dead leaves and other garden waste. Green matter is the source of nitrogen and somewhat harder to find; it can be grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps and animal manure.

Patton recommends about 2/3 brown matter to 1/3 green matter.

Some materials should not be used in compost, he said. Pet feces -- especially cat and dog feces -- should not be used. Nor should food waste that contains fats or oils.

Also, grass, hay or manure from a pasture that uses herbicides should not be added to the pile. Patton said these materials can all taint the compost and damage plants.

Once safe materials are available for compost, Patton said there is not really a bad location for the pile, but he suggests avoiding a low area that will collect water -- which can cause a bad smell.

To maintain the compost pile, Patton suggests watching for the development of heat within a week to 10 days of its initial construction. “If the compost pile is properly constructed, that internal part of the pile should be reaching up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit or more.”

Once the pile begins to cool down, it is time to turn the materials, a process that distributes moisture. Eventually, the pile will heat up again, then turned when it cools.

Patton said it may take between 3-6 months to form compost, but he adds, “the more you leave it in the back corner and leave it up to Mother Nature, it may take a year or more until you have compost.”

K-State Research and Extension offers several&nbsp;<a href="https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/healthy-yards-and-environment/composting.html">online resources</a>&nbsp;on composting. Additional information or questions can be directed to your local&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1684673769191.jpeg" alt="Compost. Photo courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Compost. Photo courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension News ServiceMANHATTAN – Composting is a simple way to keep the home garden healthy while also helping the environment, but there is a certain art to doing it right, said Dennis Patton, a horticulture agent in K-State Research and Extension’s Johnson County office.“The science is making sure the composting process works,” he said, “and the art part of it is figuring out what works for you.”Patton said compost can be any dead plant or animal matter, but don’t be fooled by the definition.“We put dead stuff in the compost, but the compost is very much alive,” he said.Within the compost pile, there are live microorganisms that feed off dead matter. Managing the microorganisms is the key to composting, Patton said.Patton said compost consists of a mixture of green and brown matter, both of which are key to making the microorganisms “happy.”Brown matter is the source of carbon, and the bulk of what gardeners use in the compost pile; it includes dead leaves and other garden waste. Green matter is the source of nitrogen and somewhat harder to find; it can be grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps and animal manure.Patton recommends about 2/3 brown matter to 1/3 green matter.Some materials should not be used in compost, he said. Pet feces -- especially cat and dog feces -- should not be used. Nor should food waste that contains fats or oils.Also, grass, hay or manure from a pasture that uses herbicides should not be added to the pile. Patton said these materials can all taint the compost and damage plants.Once safe materials are available for compost, Patton said there is not really a bad location for the pile, but he suggests avoiding a low area that will collect water -- which can cause a bad smell.To maintain the compost pile, Patton suggests watching for the development of heat within a week to 10 days of its initial construction. “If the compost pile is properly constructed, that internal part of the pile should be reaching up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit or more.”Once the pile begins to cool down, it is time to turn the materials, a process that distributes moisture. Eventually, the pile will heat up again, then turned when it cools.Patton said it may take between 3-6 months to form compost, but he adds, “the more you leave it in the back corner and leave it up to Mother Nature, it may take a year or more until you have compost.”K-State Research and Extension offers several&nbsp;<a href="https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/healthy-yards-and-environment/composting.html">online resources</a>&nbsp;on composting. Additional information or questions can be directed to your local&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

Composting improves the environment and home garden

By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Specialist K-State Research and Extension If you enjoy gardening, learning, and giving back as a volunteer, consider becoming an Extension Master Gardener in 2023.&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension will be offering the 2023 Master Gardener Basic Training Course&nbsp;starting September 14th.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Classes begin&nbsp;September 14th&nbsp;and will run each&nbsp;Thursday through November 30th.&nbsp; This training will be held in a hybrid format online through zoom and will also include 5 in-person training days.&nbsp; Topics covered include: plant growth and development, soil fertility, insects, diseases, landscape maintenance, vegetables, growing fruit, turf management, native plants and biodiversity, annual and perennial flowers, and more.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Master Gardeners are K-State Research &amp; Extension volunteers who enjoy cultivating their own plants and gardens while sharing their skills and knowledge with the community around them to help others grow.&nbsp; Volunteering as an Extension Master Gardener is a wonderful way to enrich your life and the lives of others.

The decision to become a Master Gardener can be very rewarding.&nbsp; It is a decision to take your horticulture knowledge to the next level, and it is also a commitment to find creative ways to make a difference in our community while sharing that knowledge with the people and places around you.

Training is just one great benefit.&nbsp; Master Gardeners receive a 40-hour-plus horticulture training course from K-State Extension specialists and county Extension agents.&nbsp; The basic training provides a great starting point for those new to gardening, but is also in depth enough to apply to gardeners of any skill level.&nbsp; Other benefits of being a Master Gardener include the camaraderie of people who share similar passions, receiving ongoing horticulture training and support through K-State Research and Extension, and other local horticulture opportunities.

Once training is complete, Master Gardeners are encouraged to take their knowledge out to the community to share it with others in unique and meaningful ways.&nbsp; First year Master Gardeners volunteer 40 hours of time and during succeeding years have a commitment of just 20 hours to remain active.

Master Gardener volunteer time can be selected from current Master Gardener projects and can also be tailored to individual abilities and interests.&nbsp; Master Gardeners are encouraged to find their creativity in looking for ways to impact the community.&nbsp; A few activities many Master Gardeners enjoy volunteering on include: &nbsp;the demonstration garden, community gardens, county fairs, and educational garden tours and events.

Space for the course is limited and applications to join the course can be filled out online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and are&nbsp;due by August 31st, 2023.&nbsp; We look forward to hearing from you!&nbsp; K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1690370234643.jpeg" alt="KSRE Photo" />
 <figcaption>KSRE Photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Specialist K-State Research and Extension If you enjoy gardening, learning, and giving back as a volunteer, consider becoming an Extension Master Gardener in 2023.&nbsp; Central Kansas District K-State Research and Extension will be offering the 2023 Master Gardener Basic Training Course&nbsp;starting September 14th.&nbsp;&nbsp;Classes begin&nbsp;September 14th&nbsp;and will run each&nbsp;Thursday through November 30th.&nbsp; This training will be held in a hybrid format online through zoom and will also include 5 in-person training days.&nbsp; Topics covered include: plant growth and development, soil fertility, insects, diseases, landscape maintenance, vegetables, growing fruit, turf management, native plants and biodiversity, annual and perennial flowers, and more.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Who are Master Gardeners?Master Gardeners are K-State Research &amp; Extension volunteers who enjoy cultivating their own plants and gardens while sharing their skills and knowledge with the community around them to help others grow.&nbsp; Volunteering as an Extension Master Gardener is a wonderful way to enrich your life and the lives of others.Why become a Master Gardener?The decision to become a Master Gardener can be very rewarding.&nbsp; It is a decision to take your horticulture knowledge to the next level, and it is also a commitment to find creative ways to make a difference in our community while sharing that knowledge with the people and places around you.Training is just one great benefit.&nbsp; Master Gardeners receive a 40-hour-plus horticulture training course from K-State Extension specialists and county Extension agents.&nbsp; The basic training provides a great starting point for those new to gardening, but is also in depth enough to apply to gardeners of any skill level.&nbsp; Other benefits of being a Master Gardener include the camaraderie of people who share similar passions, receiving ongoing horticulture training and support through K-State Research and Extension, and other local horticulture opportunities.What about volunteering?Once training is complete, Master Gardeners are encouraged to take their knowledge out to the community to share it with others in unique and meaningful ways.&nbsp; First year Master Gardeners volunteer 40 hours of time and during succeeding years have a commitment of just 20 hours to remain active.Master Gardener volunteer time can be selected from current Master Gardener projects and can also be tailored to individual abilities and interests.&nbsp; Master Gardeners are encouraged to find their creativity in looking for ways to impact the community.&nbsp; A few activities many Master Gardeners enjoy volunteering on include: &nbsp;the demonstration garden, community gardens, county fairs, and educational garden tours and events.Apply onlineSpace for the course is limited and applications to join the course can be filled out online at&nbsp;<a href="http://www.centralkansas.ksu.edu/">www.centralkansas.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;and are&nbsp;due by August 31st, 2023.&nbsp; We look forward to hearing from you!&nbsp; K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Master Gardener training begins Sept. 14

By JASON GRAVES KSRE Central District Horticulture agent

Daylilies are one of the plants you see growing next to an old homestead that time and weather have reduced to rubble.&nbsp; This is a testimony to their toughness.&nbsp; The old orange-blooming daylilies may be the toughest, but other varieties with more unusual colors are also tough and have proven themselves in Central Kansas landscapes.&nbsp;

The first hybrid daylily was introduced in 1890.&nbsp; Since then, thousands of varieties have been introduced.&nbsp; Although the daylily is in the lily family, it should not be confused with the garden lilies that grow from bulbs.&nbsp;

Daylilies have long, grass-like leaves, stiff, upright flowering branches, and fleshy roots.&nbsp; They grow in full sun to part shade, are 1 to 3.5 feet tall, and are hardy in Zones 3-10.&nbsp; They are effective garden perennials planted either in masses or combined with other plants.&nbsp;

Even neglected daylilies tend to survive.&nbsp; However,&nbsp;to maintain vigor, even the toughest daylily needs occasional care.&nbsp; With today’s varieties one important part of that care is dividing clumps every three to five years.

Unlike many perennials, daylilies can be divided just about any time during the growing season, even while they’re blooming.&nbsp; Still,&nbsp;the best time to divide clumps in Kansas tends to be late summer or early fall.&nbsp; Allow the last flowers to fade, and dig up the whole clump. Pull off any dead leaves and flower stalks, and cut the green foliage back to about four inches.

As might be expected, the daylily root system is tough, too. The individual crowns in an old clump will be meshed together by entangled tuberous roots.&nbsp; You may need to separate the clump with a sharp spade. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate.

Each new division should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. &nbsp;If you’ve divided your daylilies within the last few years, you may be able to use a spade to ‘peel off’ leaf fans and their roots. Sometimes, with a real good shaking, you can divide plants using your hands only.&nbsp;

Don’t be too concerned about root loss or breakage. You can trim broken or dead roots after prying the crowns apart.&nbsp;Young, vigorous divisions from the edges of the parent clump are more vigorous and will recover more quickly.&nbsp;Discard old growth from these neglected plants.&nbsp;

Plant in garden soil that you have amended with compost if possible.&nbsp; Spread the roots out in the planting hole, cover with soil to its original planting depth, firm the soil with your palms, and water in thoroughly.&nbsp; If you wait until late fall to divide daylilies, you’ll need to mulch the new plantings after the ground freezes.&nbsp; That will help prevent their being heaved out of the ground by the soil’s alternate freezing and thawing.

Divided daylilies won’t flower as abundantly the first year after division.&nbsp;&nbsp;But the plants will be back to normal by the second year and they’ll stay that way until they need to be divided again.&nbsp; By then, you may decide you have enough daylilies to start sharing with your neighbors and friends.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/11/1637121416809.jpeg" alt=" " />
 <figcaption> </figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES KSRE Central District Horticulture agentDaylilies are one of the plants you see growing next to an old homestead that time and weather have reduced to rubble.&nbsp; This is a testimony to their toughness.&nbsp; The old orange-blooming daylilies may be the toughest, but other varieties with more unusual colors are also tough and have proven themselves in Central Kansas landscapes.&nbsp;The first hybrid daylily was introduced in 1890.&nbsp; Since then, thousands of varieties have been introduced.&nbsp; Although the daylily is in the lily family, it should not be confused with the garden lilies that grow from bulbs.&nbsp;<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692362934137.jpeg" alt="Pink and yellow daylily variety. Images courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>Pink and yellow daylily variety. Images courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>Daylilies have long, grass-like leaves, stiff, upright flowering branches, and fleshy roots.&nbsp; They grow in full sun to part shade, are 1 to 3.5 feet tall, and are hardy in Zones 3-10.&nbsp; They are effective garden perennials planted either in masses or combined with other plants.&nbsp;Even neglected daylilies tend to survive.&nbsp; However,&nbsp;to maintain vigor, even the toughest daylily needs occasional care.&nbsp; With today’s varieties one important part of that care is dividing clumps every three to five years.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692362983869.jpeg" alt="Daylilies grow in clumps that need to be divided every 3 to 5 years" />
 <figcaption>Daylilies grow in clumps that need to be divided every 3 to 5 years</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>When and how to divide</h2>Unlike many perennials, daylilies can be divided just about any time during the growing season, even while they’re blooming.&nbsp; Still,&nbsp;the best time to divide clumps in Kansas tends to be late summer or early fall.&nbsp; Allow the last flowers to fade, and dig up the whole clump. Pull off any dead leaves and flower stalks, and cut the green foliage back to about four inches.As might be expected, the daylily root system is tough, too. The individual crowns in an old clump will be meshed together by entangled tuberous roots.&nbsp; You may need to separate the clump with a sharp spade. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/8/1692363066587.jpeg" alt="Dividing Daylilies" />
 <figcaption>Dividing Daylilies</figcaption>
 </figure>Each new division should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. &nbsp;If you’ve divided your daylilies within the last few years, you may be able to use a spade to ‘peel off’ leaf fans and their roots. Sometimes, with a real good shaking, you can divide plants using your hands only.&nbsp;Don’t be too concerned about root loss or breakage. You can trim broken or dead roots after prying the crowns apart.&nbsp;Young, vigorous divisions from the edges of the parent clump are more vigorous and will recover more quickly.&nbsp;Discard old growth from these neglected plants.&nbsp;Plant in garden soil that you have amended with compost if possible.&nbsp; Spread the roots out in the planting hole, cover with soil to its original planting depth, firm the soil with your palms, and water in thoroughly.&nbsp; If you wait until late fall to divide daylilies, you’ll need to mulch the new plantings after the ground freezes.&nbsp; That will help prevent their being heaved out of the ground by the soil’s alternate freezing and thawing.Divided daylilies won’t flower as abundantly the first year after division.&nbsp;&nbsp;But the plants will be back to normal by the second year and they’ll stay that way until they need to be divided again.&nbsp; By then, you may decide you have enough daylilies to start sharing with your neighbors and friends.

KSRE: Divide daylilies now for more tough and reliable flowers

Pick during the ‘breaker’ stage and store inside, says K-State horticulture expert

Kansas gardeners may need just a little more patience and ingenuity if they’re finding that their tomatoes are slow to ripen this summer.

Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said recent heat may have caused the plants to go into “survival mode,” a time when it instead concentrates on moving water.

“The hot weather we have had recently not only interferes with the pollination of flowers, but it also affects how quickly fruit matures,” Upham said. “The best temperature range for tomato’s growth and development is 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.”

Recently throughout the Midwest, temperatures went above 100 degrees, which causes fruit development to “slow to a crawl,” according to Upham.

“Tomato color can also be affected by heat,” he said. “When temperatures rise above 95 degrees, red pigments don’t form properly, though the orange and yellow pigments do. This results in orange fruit. It doesn’t affect the edibility of the tomato, but often gardeners want that deep red color back.”

To help tomatoes ripen to a bright red color, Upham said gardeners should pick them during the ‘breaker’ stage, or at that point when they are just starting to turn color.

“At this point,” he said, “the tomato has cut itself off from the vine and nothing will be gained by keeping it on the plant. If tomatoes are picked at this stage and brought into an air-conditioned house, they will ripen more quickly and develop a good, red color. A temperature of 75 to 85 degrees will work well.”

High heat also will cause poor fruit to set, especially on slicer tomatoes.

“Cherry tomatoes seem to be more heat tolerant,” Upham said. “But for slicers, high temperatures seem to interfere with pollen viability or can cause excessive style growth, leading to a lack of pollination. Tomatoes that have already formed (before excessive heat) are not affected.”

Upham said it takes about three weeks for tomato flowers to develop into fruit that is about the size of a golf ball. After that, growth is usually more rapid over the following three to six weeks, and then just a few more days to change color.

“Though there are ‘heat-set’ slicing tomato varieties that will set fruit at higher temperatures, that difference is normally only two to three degrees,” Upham said. “Once cooler temperatures arrive, tomato flowers will resume setting fruit.”

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/2/1612708754292.jpeg" alt="KSRE tomato plant feat.jpg" />
 <figcaption>KSRE tomato plant feat.jpg</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension<h2>Pick during the ‘breaker’ stage and store inside, says K-State horticulture expert</h2>Kansas gardeners may need just a little more patience and ingenuity if they’re finding that their tomatoes are slow to ripen this summer.Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said recent heat may have caused the plants to go into “survival mode,” a time when it instead concentrates on moving water.“The hot weather we have had recently not only interferes with the pollination of flowers, but it also affects how quickly fruit matures,” Upham said. “The best temperature range for tomato’s growth and development is 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.”Recently throughout the Midwest, temperatures went above 100 degrees, which causes fruit development to “slow to a crawl,” according to Upham.“Tomato color can also be affected by heat,” he said. “When temperatures rise above 95 degrees, red pigments don’t form properly, though the orange and yellow pigments do. This results in orange fruit. It doesn’t affect the edibility of the tomato, but often gardeners want that deep red color back.”To help tomatoes ripen to a bright red color, Upham said gardeners should pick them during the ‘breaker’ stage, or at that point when they are just starting to turn color.“At this point,” he said, “the tomato has cut itself off from the vine and nothing will be gained by keeping it on the plant. If tomatoes are picked at this stage and brought into an air-conditioned house, they will ripen more quickly and develop a good, red color. A temperature of 75 to 85 degrees will work well.”High heat also will cause poor fruit to set, especially on slicer tomatoes.“Cherry tomatoes seem to be more heat tolerant,” Upham said. “But for slicers, high temperatures seem to interfere with pollen viability or can cause excessive style growth, leading to a lack of pollination. Tomatoes that have already formed (before excessive heat) are not affected.”Upham said it takes about three weeks for tomato flowers to develop into fruit that is about the size of a golf ball. After that, growth is usually more rapid over the following three to six weeks, and then just a few more days to change color.“Though there are ‘heat-set’ slicing tomato varieties that will set fruit at higher temperatures, that difference is normally only two to three degrees,” Upham said. “Once cooler temperatures arrive, tomato flowers will resume setting fruit.”Originally posted July 23, 2020

'Why are my tomatoes still green?' Kansas heat slowing tomato ripening

By: Jason Graves Horticulture Extension AgentCentral Kansas District Mid summer is a busy time for insects in gardens and landscapes. Gardeners here in Central Kansas are noticing everything from blister beetles to squash bugs.&nbsp;

In some cases these insects can cause quite an alarm, especially if they show up in large numbers. So far this year our office has received reports of elm leaf beetle, walnut caterpillar, grasshopper, chinch bug, bagworm, burrowing bug, and blister beetle ‘outbreaks’ in the area.

No two years are alike when it comes to insects and their potential to explode in number.&nbsp;&nbsp;Weather patterns, availability of food sources, and destruction of natural enemies are often key contributors to whether an insect outbreak can occur.

What do we recommend or what is the best response in these kinds of situations? The answer is…it depends.&nbsp; There is not one black and white answer to give when an insect outbreak is happening in a landscape. Many factors must be considered in order to determine if any action is needed at all.

When an insect ‘outbreak’ occurs there are two important steps to take in order to determine what, if any, action might be needed.

First, identify the insect.&nbsp;This is of course the first critical step in any decision making. K-State Research and Extension can help local gardeners identify the insect if needed to be sure that any further action taken is based on the right information.

Second, learn the biology of the insect.&nbsp;Every insect is different and understanding the life cycle of the insect aids in determining if the insect in question might cause a long term problem or if the nuisance is only temporary.&nbsp;

For example,&nbsp;elm leaf beetle&nbsp;usually has two generations each year here in Kansas. By the time the second generation is occurring on elm trees in mid to late summer, the majority of the leaves on the tree may be damaged, skeletonized, or dropped. Even though the tree looks bad, at this point spraying is ineffective and unnecessary since the beetles are nearing or at the end of their life cycle. The damage from elm leaf beetle feeding is rarely damaging in the long term to an otherwise healthy tree.&nbsp;The elm tree will leaf out again the following spring. If an elm tree is an important source of shade in the landscape, there are options to treat for elm leaf beetle to prevent the excessive loss of foliage. Check out our publication here:&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Elm%20Leaf%20Beetle.pdf">Elm Leaf Beetle</a>

Walnut caterpillar&nbsp;which has also been seen in many landscapes this summer follows a similar pattern. This insect also has two generations a year here in Kansas. The first generation feeds during June and early July and skeletonizes and damages large numbers of leaves on walnut, pecan, oak, willow, honeylocust, and apple trees.&nbsp; The larvae feed for about a month before reaching maturity and then a second generation can follow in late summer and early fall. This insect has an interesting habit of coming down lower on the tree trunk to molt (shed old skin) which means that a hard stream of water can dislodge many caterpillars or they can be handpicked/removed from the tree as they molt. Click here for more info:&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Walnut%20Caterpillar.pdf">Walnut Caterpillars</a>

Again, healthy trees are not damaged in the long term by an occasional walnut caterpillar outbreak, so control is rarely needed unless the tree’s shade needs to be preserved in the landscape or the tree is young and vulnerable to the stress.

Mobile insects such as grasshoppers can present some real challenges for gardeners, especially in rural settings. The ability to control grasshoppers declines quickly as grasshoppers develop and migrate.&nbsp;<a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/grasshopper-control-in-gardens-small-acreages-5-536/">This fact sheet from Colorado State University is a nice read.</a>

By learning about each insect and it’s lifecycle homeowners can learn when to monitor trees and shrubs for insect outbreaks. Taking time to regularly examine trees and shrubs especially in the late spring and early summer can identify problems well before they get out of hand and provide time to make educated decisions.

Check out our K-State Research and Extension&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/common-pest-problems/">common plant problems</a>page for many more fact sheets on common problems in the garden and landscape.

It is also very important for gardeners to get to know beneficial insects in the garden and landscape. There are many beneficial insects to get to know. Insects such as these large&nbsp;cicada killer wasps&nbsp;can show up in large numbers in a landscape like they did here in Kansas in 2022. While they look intimidating, they are not a threat at all and are very beneficial in regulating cicada populations.

Soldier beetles often show up in large numbers but are also beneficial. They feed on grasshopper eggs, soft-bodied insects, and can serve as pollinators.

This publication from the Xerces Society is a great resource to use for getting to know beneficial insects.&nbsp;<a href="https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/2018-05/16-020_01_XercesSoc_Habitat-Planning-for-Beneficial-Insects_web.pdf">Habitat Planning for Beneficial Insects.</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1689511017790.jpeg" alt="Chinch bugs can migrate out of fields and into gardens and landscapes. Photos Courtesy KSRE Central District" />
 <figcaption>Chinch bugs can migrate out of fields and into gardens and landscapes. Photos Courtesy KSRE Central District</figcaption>
 </figure>By: Jason Graves Horticulture Extension AgentCentral Kansas District Mid summer is a busy time for insects in gardens and landscapes. Gardeners here in Central Kansas are noticing everything from blister beetles to squash bugs.&nbsp; In some cases these insects can cause quite an alarm, especially if they show up in large numbers. So far this year our office has received reports of elm leaf beetle, walnut caterpillar, grasshopper, chinch bug, bagworm, burrowing bug, and blister beetle ‘outbreaks’ in the area.No two years are alike when it comes to insects and their potential to explode in number.&nbsp;&nbsp;Weather patterns, availability of food sources, and destruction of natural enemies are often key contributors to whether an insect outbreak can occur.What do we recommend or what is the best response in these kinds of situations? The answer is…it depends.&nbsp; There is not one black and white answer to give when an insect outbreak is happening in a landscape. Many factors must be considered in order to determine if any action is needed at all.When an insect ‘outbreak’ occurs there are two important steps to take in order to determine what, if any, action might be needed.First, identify the insect.&nbsp;This is of course the first critical step in any decision making. K-State Research and Extension can help local gardeners identify the insect if needed to be sure that any further action taken is based on the right information.Second, learn the biology of the insect.&nbsp;Every insect is different and understanding the life cycle of the insect aids in determining if the insect in question might cause a long term problem or if the nuisance is only temporary.&nbsp; <figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1689511054613.jpeg" alt="Blister beetles are commonly seen migrating into vegetable gardens and landscapes in mid-summer" />
 <figcaption>Blister beetles are commonly seen migrating into vegetable gardens and landscapes in mid-summer</figcaption>
 </figure><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1689511244267.jpeg" alt="Elm leaf beetle larvae migrating down the tree trunk" />
 <figcaption>Elm leaf beetle larvae migrating down the tree trunk</figcaption>
 </figure>For example,&nbsp;elm leaf beetle&nbsp;usually has two generations each year here in Kansas. By the time the second generation is occurring on elm trees in mid to late summer, the majority of the leaves on the tree may be damaged, skeletonized, or dropped. Even though the tree looks bad, at this point spraying is ineffective and unnecessary since the beetles are nearing or at the end of their life cycle. The damage from elm leaf beetle feeding is rarely damaging in the long term to an otherwise healthy tree.&nbsp;The elm tree will leaf out again the following spring. If an elm tree is an important source of shade in the landscape, there are options to treat for elm leaf beetle to prevent the excessive loss of foliage. Check out our publication here:&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Elm%20Leaf%20Beetle.pdf">Elm Leaf Beetle</a><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1689511454005.jpeg" alt="Elm leaf beetle adult" />
 <figcaption>Elm leaf beetle adult</figcaption>
 </figure>Walnut caterpillar&nbsp;which has also been seen in many landscapes this summer follows a similar pattern. This insect also has two generations a year here in Kansas. The first generation feeds during June and early July and skeletonizes and damages large numbers of leaves on walnut, pecan, oak, willow, honeylocust, and apple trees.&nbsp; The larvae feed for about a month before reaching maturity and then a second generation can follow in late summer and early fall. This insect has an interesting habit of coming down lower on the tree trunk to molt (shed old skin) which means that a hard stream of water can dislodge many caterpillars or they can be handpicked/removed from the tree as they molt. Click here for more info:&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/common-pest-problems/common-pest-problem-new/Walnut%20Caterpillar.pdf">Walnut Caterpillars</a><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1689511535966.jpeg" alt="Walnut caterpillars molting" />
 <figcaption>Walnut caterpillars molting</figcaption>
 </figure>Again, healthy trees are not damaged in the long term by an occasional walnut caterpillar outbreak, so control is rarely needed unless the tree’s shade needs to be preserved in the landscape or the tree is young and vulnerable to the stress.Mobile insects such as grasshoppers can present some real challenges for gardeners, especially in rural settings. The ability to control grasshoppers declines quickly as grasshoppers develop and migrate.&nbsp;<a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/grasshopper-control-in-gardens-small-acreages-5-536/">This fact sheet from Colorado State University is a nice read.</a><h2>Monitor trees and shrubs regularly</h2>By learning about each insect and it’s lifecycle homeowners can learn when to monitor trees and shrubs for insect outbreaks. Taking time to regularly examine trees and shrubs especially in the late spring and early summer can identify problems well before they get out of hand and provide time to make educated decisions.Check out our K-State Research and Extension&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/common-pest-problems/">common plant problems</a>page for many more fact sheets on common problems in the garden and landscape.<h2>Get to know beneficials</h2><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1689511641435.jpeg" alt="Cicada killer wasps are beneficial insects" />
 <figcaption>Cicada killer wasps are beneficial insects</figcaption>
 </figure>It is also very important for gardeners to get to know beneficial insects in the garden and landscape. There are many beneficial insects to get to know. Insects such as these large&nbsp;cicada killer wasps&nbsp;can show up in large numbers in a landscape like they did here in Kansas in 2022. While they look intimidating, they are not a threat at all and are very beneficial in regulating cicada populations.Soldier beetles often show up in large numbers but are also beneficial. They feed on grasshopper eggs, soft-bodied insects, and can serve as pollinators.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1689511770644.jpeg" alt="Soldier beetles may also bee seen in large numbers in landscapes, but are beneficial" />
 <figcaption>Soldier beetles may also bee seen in large numbers in landscapes, but are beneficial</figcaption>
 </figure>This publication from the Xerces Society is a great resource to use for getting to know beneficial insects.&nbsp;<a href="https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/2018-05/16-020_01_XercesSoc_Habitat-Planning-for-Beneficial-Insects_web.pdf">Habitat Planning for Beneficial Insects.</a>

KSRE: Insect Outbreaks in Garden, Landscaping

&nbsp;It’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.

“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” Domenghini said. “Usually, male flowers appear first in the season. Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base.”

Domenghini suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.

“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit,” Domenghini said.

To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. Domenghini recommends marking that flower and make note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.

She added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.

“(Pollinators) are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If using herbicides, apply them in the evening when the flowers have closed for the day,” Domenghini said.

Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.

“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” she said.

Domenghini said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.

“Applying nitrogen promotes vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” she said.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/7/1688647935962.jpeg" alt="K-State horticulture expert shares why some vegetables produce flowers and not fruit. Image Courtesy KSRE" />
 <figcaption>K-State horticulture expert shares why some vegetables produce flowers and not fruit. Image Courtesy KSRE</figcaption>
 </figure>By Maddy RohrKSRE &nbsp;It’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” Domenghini said. “Usually, male flowers appear first in the season. Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base.”Domenghini suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit,” Domenghini said.To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. Domenghini recommends marking that flower and make note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.She added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.“(Pollinators) are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If using herbicides, apply them in the evening when the flowers have closed for the day,” Domenghini said.Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” she said.Domenghini said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.“Applying nitrogen promotes vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” she said.

Produce Stand In the Garden: Why is My Crop Not Producing Fruit?

K-State Research and Extension,&nbsp;<a href="https://www.rrc.k-state.edu/localfoods/index.html" target="_blank">Local Foods Systems</a>&nbsp;administrator Rebecca McMahon describes numerous ways that people with physical limitations can enjoy the benefits of gardening.&nbsp;

“Gardening often seems like it's an activity that is really only available to those in great physical health with no limitations in what they can do, whether they can bend, or stand or kneel or things like that,” McMahon says. “But there are lots of different tools and styles of gardening that can make gardening accessible to you, no matter what your limitations might be.”&nbsp;

Some accessibility options include vertical gardens, a ‘salad table,’ raised beds and other accommodations. Numerous tools can also make gardening easier, particularly for those who have reduced strength to grip tools.&nbsp;

More tips on accessible gardening and other topics are available in the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/S51.pdf" target="_blank">2023 Kansas Garden Guide</a>, released earlier this spring.&nbsp;

K-State Research and Extension video by Matthew Campbell&nbsp;

K-State Research and Extension News ServiceK-State Research and Extension,&nbsp;<a href="https://www.rrc.k-state.edu/localfoods/index.html" target="_blank">Local Foods Systems</a>&nbsp;administrator Rebecca McMahon describes numerous ways that people with physical limitations can enjoy the benefits of gardening.&nbsp;“Gardening often seems like it's an activity that is really only available to those in great physical health with no limitations in what they can do, whether they can bend, or stand or kneel or things like that,” McMahon says. “But there are lots of different tools and styles of gardening that can make gardening accessible to you, no matter what your limitations might be.”&nbsp;Some accessibility options include vertical gardens, a ‘salad table,’ raised beds and other accommodations. Numerous tools can also make gardening easier, particularly for those who have reduced strength to grip tools.&nbsp;<div><iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4s5eYeBauxk" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>More tips on accessible gardening and other topics are available in the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/S51.pdf" target="_blank">2023 Kansas Garden Guide</a>, released earlier this spring.&nbsp;K-State Research and Extension video by Matthew Campbell&nbsp;

🎥Options for accessible gardening

K-State Research and Extension News Service&nbsp;

MANHATTAN –&nbsp;Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.&nbsp;

“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” Upham said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”&nbsp;

Upham said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:&nbsp;

Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. Upham recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.&nbsp;

Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.&nbsp;

“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” Upham said.&nbsp;

Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, Upham warned.&nbsp;

Upham said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.&nbsp;

“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”&nbsp;

A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. Upham suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.&nbsp;

More information on rabbits and rabbit control is&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/cottontail-rabbits/index.html" target="_blank">available online</a>&nbsp;from K-State Research and Extension.&nbsp;

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

Brand names mentioned in this article are for identification purposes only and are not intended to be an endorsement of any product.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1685317554319.jpeg" alt="Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said there are many common-sense ways to keep rabbits out of gardens. Photo by&nbsp;<a href="https://pixabay.com/users/eggtart221-8619866/?utm_source=link-attribution&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=image&amp;utm_content=3463721">Hong Eun Park</a>&nbsp;from&nbsp;<a href="https://pixabay.com//?utm_source=link-attribution&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=image&amp;utm_content=3463721">Pixabay</a>" />
 <figcaption>Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said there are many common-sense ways to keep rabbits out of gardens. Photo by&nbsp;<a href="https://pixabay.com/users/eggtart221-8619866/?utm_source=link-attribution&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=image&amp;utm_content=3463721">Hong Eun Park</a>&nbsp;from&nbsp;<a href="https://pixabay.com//?utm_source=link-attribution&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=image&amp;utm_content=3463721">Pixabay</a></figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Research and Extension News Service&nbsp;MANHATTAN –&nbsp;Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.&nbsp;“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” Upham said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”&nbsp;Upham said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:&nbsp;Fencing&nbsp;Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. Upham recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.&nbsp;Floating Row Cover&nbsp;Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.&nbsp;“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” Upham said.&nbsp;Repellants&nbsp;Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, Upham warned.&nbsp;Trapping&nbsp;Upham said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.&nbsp;“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”&nbsp;Sprinkler&nbsp;A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. Upham suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.&nbsp;More information on rabbits and rabbit control is&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/cottontail-rabbits/index.html" target="_blank">available online</a>&nbsp;from K-State Research and Extension.&nbsp;Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;Brand names mentioned in this article are for identification purposes only and are not intended to be an endorsement of any product.&nbsp;

Rabbits in the garden? K-State's Upham offers effective protection methods

By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Extension Agent, Central Kansas District

A “miller moth” is an all-inclusive umbrella term used to describe any plain brown drab moth.&nbsp;&nbsp;In some areas of Kansas, moths have been a big nuisance to homeowners recently. At this time of year, the ‘miller moths’&nbsp;&nbsp;are actually army cutworm moths,&nbsp;Euxoa auxillaris. They live on flower nectar and are not know to cause a lot of damage, but are quite an annoyance. The seasonal life history of these moths begins in the fall of the year when adult moths deposit eggs in the soil in fields of fall-seeded wheat, alfalfa stands and weedy fields/patches. Eggs may hatch within several days of being deposited&nbsp;&nbsp;but may be delayed under unfavorable/dry conditions. Larvae preferably feed during the dark of night and seek shelter in the soil during daytime hours. Army cutworms overwinter as partially grown larvae.

Each year in the Kansas, overwintered army cutworm larvae resume their feeding as temperatures moderate and become warmer. They complete their development toward the beginning of May after which they burrow into the ground where they create protective earthen cocoons inside of which they pupate.

Moth emergence usually begins by late May.&nbsp;In some years the numbers of moths can be quite a nuisance.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;For a period of time, moths remain near areas where they emerged, this is the time period we are in right now.

The nuisance is temporary&nbsp;because at a certain point, an undefined stimulus (likely photoperiod driven) signals moths across the Central Plains states to migrate westward to the higher elevations in the Rockies where they are a food source for grizzly bears.

This is an interesting tidbit about army cutworm moths. During summer months, bears move to the higher elevations to feast on army cutworm moths. It was determined that a single moth possesses ½&nbsp;&nbsp;calorie of fat content. It was further estimated that a bear obtains 20,000 calories of fat on a daily basis by consuming up to 40,000 moths per day.&nbsp;

In mid- to late September, the mature moths migrate back to the Central Plains where they deposit eggs to initiate the next generation of army cutworms.

These moths shun daylight and are much more active during the evening hours. That is, with the approach of daylight, army cutworm moths seek shelter/cover in any conceivable space including homes, garages, cars, and more. Excluding moths is difficult because they will exploit very small openings.

Prevention is the primary way to deal with the temporary army cutworm moth outbreak while we wait for their migration west.&nbsp;Seal around doors and windows to keep them from getting inside. It is recommended to reduce or turn off any unnecessary lights inside and outside the house to prevent the worms and moths from being attracted to your property.

Once in the home, the best way to remove the moths is to swat or vacuum them, or attract them to traps. An easy trap to make is to suspend a light bulb or lamp near or over a bucket partially filled with soapy water. Moths attracted to the light often will fall into the water and be killed.&nbsp;

Insecticides have little or no place in controlling millers. The moths are not very susceptible to insecticides and any moths killed will be rapidly replaced by new moths until they migrate west.

To see more lawn and garden information, visit the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">Central Kansas District Extension Lawn and Garden webpage</a>.

And check out the Salina Post Lawn and Garden page, under the Local tab or&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/category/garden">click here</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1685222247585.png" alt="Photos courtesy Jason Graves" />
 <figcaption>Photos courtesy Jason Graves</figcaption>
 </figure>By JASON GRAVES Horticulture Extension Agent, Central Kansas DistrictA “miller moth” is an all-inclusive umbrella term used to describe any plain brown drab moth.&nbsp;&nbsp;In some areas of Kansas, moths have been a big nuisance to homeowners recently. At this time of year, the ‘miller moths’&nbsp;&nbsp;are actually army cutworm moths,&nbsp;Euxoa auxillaris. They live on flower nectar and are not know to cause a lot of damage, but are quite an annoyance. The seasonal life history of these moths begins in the fall of the year when adult moths deposit eggs in the soil in fields of fall-seeded wheat, alfalfa stands and weedy fields/patches. Eggs may hatch within several days of being deposited&nbsp;&nbsp;but may be delayed under unfavorable/dry conditions. Larvae preferably feed during the dark of night and seek shelter in the soil during daytime hours. Army cutworms overwinter as partially grown larvae.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1685222421118.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure> Each year in the Kansas, overwintered army cutworm larvae resume their feeding as temperatures moderate and become warmer. They complete their development toward the beginning of May after which they burrow into the ground where they create protective earthen cocoons inside of which they pupate.<h2>The nuisance is temporary</h2>Moth emergence usually begins by late May.&nbsp;In some years the numbers of moths can be quite a nuisance.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;For a period of time, moths remain near areas where they emerged, this is the time period we are in right now.The nuisance is temporary&nbsp;because at a certain point, an undefined stimulus (likely photoperiod driven) signals moths across the Central Plains states to migrate westward to the higher elevations in the Rockies where they are a food source for grizzly bears.This is an interesting tidbit about army cutworm moths. During summer months, bears move to the higher elevations to feast on army cutworm moths. It was determined that a single moth possesses ½&nbsp;&nbsp;calorie of fat content. It was further estimated that a bear obtains 20,000 calories of fat on a daily basis by consuming up to 40,000 moths per day.&nbsp;In mid- to late September, the mature moths migrate back to the Central Plains where they deposit eggs to initiate the next generation of army cutworms.<h2>Prevention</h2>These moths shun daylight and are much more active during the evening hours. That is, with the approach of daylight, army cutworm moths seek shelter/cover in any conceivable space including homes, garages, cars, and more. Excluding moths is difficult because they will exploit very small openings.Prevention is the primary way to deal with the temporary army cutworm moth outbreak while we wait for their migration west.&nbsp;Seal around doors and windows to keep them from getting inside. It is recommended to reduce or turn off any unnecessary lights inside and outside the house to prevent the worms and moths from being attracted to your property.Once in the home, the best way to remove the moths is to swat or vacuum them, or attract them to traps. An easy trap to make is to suspend a light bulb or lamp near or over a bucket partially filled with soapy water. Moths attracted to the light often will fall into the water and be killed.&nbsp;Insecticides have little or no place in controlling millers. The moths are not very susceptible to insecticides and any moths killed will be rapidly replaced by new moths until they migrate west.To see more lawn and garden information, visit the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.centralkansas.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/">Central Kansas District Extension Lawn and Garden webpage</a>.And check out the Salina Post Lawn and Garden page, under the Local tab or&nbsp;<a href="https://salinapost.com/category/garden">click here</a>.

CENTRAL KANSAS L&G: Nuisance moths are Army Cutworm moths

By LESLIE EIKLEBERRY Salina Post

A local beekeeper has received a grant to study a potential late-summer food source that not only could help bees, but also be of use to cattle and humans.

The North Central Region Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program (NCR-SARE) announced last week that Allen Stovall from AJ Honey Farms, Salina, had received a $14,152 grant from NCR-SARE's Farmer Rancher Grant Program to study the use of a late summer perennial as a food source for honey bees.

Stovall, who operates AJ Honey Farms with his wife, Judy, said that they will be studying the use of Silphium Integrifolium, a part of the Aster (Sunflower) family.

"This flower blooms in the later part of summer from July into September. Honey bees have a hard time finding food during this time of the year. We call this a dearth," Allen told Salina Post. "For honey bees this means it's pretty much a desert during these months unless we can find alternatives to provide for them. Silphium is one of those potential alternatives."

The two-year grant project will have four feeding sites for bees.

"Our honey bees will have access to Silphium at two sites and two sites will not have any Silphium available. We will measure the production from each site and report our findings," he said.

Stovall noted that if the project successfully shows Silphium as a late-summer food source for honey bees, it would add to the perennial's uses. 

"We can use it as a supplement in cattle feed, the seeds from Silphuim can be used to extract human consumable cooking oil (similar to sunflower oil) and as beekeepers we want to see if the honey produced from Silphium can be a passive crop," Allen Stovall said.

The idea for the study was born from AJ Honey Farm's working relationship with The Land Institute.

"Ebony Murrell from The Land Institute came to us a few years ago to do pollination service for the Silphium plant and from that relationship, we have been able to put together a grant proposal that will help in further research," he said. "AJ Honey Farms LLC has been in collaboration with The Land Institute for about three years now in developing this research."

According to NCR-SARE, the grant "was awarded as part of NCR-SARE's Farmer Rancher Grant Program, a competitive grant program for farmers and ranchers who want to explore sustainable solutions to problems through on-farm research, demonstration, and education projects." The focus of each grant program is on research and education.

The study will be a two-year endeavor in 2023 and 2024.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1684715472506.jpeg" alt="A honey bee feeds on a Silphium flower. Photos courtesy Allen Stovall/AJ Honey Farms" />
 <figcaption>A honey bee feeds on a Silphium flower. Photos courtesy Allen Stovall/AJ Honey Farms</figcaption>
 </figure>By LESLIE EIKLEBERRY Salina PostA local beekeeper has received a grant to study a potential late-summer food source that not only could help bees, but also be of use to cattle and humans.The North Central Region Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program (NCR-SARE) announced last week that Allen Stovall from AJ Honey Farms, Salina, had received a $14,152 grant from NCR-SARE's Farmer Rancher Grant Program to study the use of a late summer perennial as a food source for honey bees.Stovall, who operates AJ Honey Farms with his wife, Judy, said that they will be studying the use of Silphium Integrifolium, a part of the Aster (Sunflower) family."This flower blooms in the later part of summer from July into September. Honey bees have a hard time finding food during this time of the year. We call this a dearth," Allen told Salina Post. "For honey bees this means it's pretty much a desert during these months unless we can find alternatives to provide for them. Silphium is one of those potential alternatives."<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1684715717017.jpeg" alt="Some of Stovall's bees" />
 <figcaption>Some of Stovall's bees</figcaption>
 </figure>The two-year grant project will have four feeding sites for bees."Our honey bees will have access to Silphium at two sites and two sites will not have any Silphium available. We will measure the production from each site and report our findings," he said.Stovall noted that if the project successfully shows Silphium as a late-summer food source for honey bees, it would add to the perennial's uses. "We can use it as a supplement in cattle feed, the seeds from Silphuim can be used to extract human consumable cooking oil (similar to sunflower oil) and as beekeepers we want to see if the honey produced from Silphium can be a passive crop," Allen Stovall said.The idea for the study was born from AJ Honey Farm's working relationship with The Land Institute.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1684715865636.jpeg" alt="The study will help determine whether honey produced from Silphium can be a passive crop." />
 <figcaption>The study will help determine whether honey produced from Silphium can be a passive crop.</figcaption>
 </figure>"Ebony Murrell from The Land Institute came to us a few years ago to do pollination service for the Silphium plant and from that relationship, we have been able to put together a grant proposal that will help in further research," he said. "AJ Honey Farms LLC has been in collaboration with The Land Institute for about three years now in developing this research."According to NCR-SARE, the grant "was awarded as part of NCR-SARE's Farmer Rancher Grant Program, a competitive grant program for farmers and ranchers who want to explore sustainable solutions to problems through on-farm research, demonstration, and education projects." The focus of each grant program is on research and education.The study will be a two-year endeavor in 2023 and 2024."During this time we are looking to educate people about Silphium but we also want to help new beekeepers become educated with their new endeavor. We started out as hobbyists and fell in love with it so much that my wife, Judy, and I are making a career out of it," Allen Stovall said.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/5/1684716041046.jpeg" alt="Allen and Judy Stovall with some of their bee hives" />
 <figcaption>Allen and Judy Stovall with some of their bee hives</figcaption>
 </figure>Indeed they are. The couple's store, at 901 N. Ninth Street, Suite A, in Salina has been open since October 2022."Thanks to our loyal customers and wonderful public support, it looks like we are here to stay," he said.